Skin Savers // First Aid Beauty

When it comes to skincare, I’m usually a wash-and-go kind of gal. If I’m feeling particularly adventurous, I might ransack my mother’s beauty draw now and then, but being both time and money-poor, her snazzy Darphin and REN products often remain untouched after a few weeks of furious buffing, cleansing and exfoliation.

This is not good. To cover up any bumps or blemishes, I have to apply more make-up than even Lauren Goodger could dream of. It also means that I am destined for a complexion of a plucked turkey, and last time I checked poultry chic isn’t the best look. But problem is, there are so many technical terms and jargon involved when buying skincare products that I’m completely nonplussed and too scared to ask for help in case I look like an idiot.

I was sent a few tester products by the nice people at First Aid Beauty (FAB) before London Fashion Week. Designed for sensitive skin types, the first thing I liked about the range was it said exactly what it did on the front. Yes, the best beauty houses might favour a minimalist aesthetic for their products, but I respected that they eschewed this (boring) design principle in favour of good old facts and some retro packaging. Respect.

The first product I tried was the Gentle Body Wash which, on a day-to-day basis, did the same thing as my ordinary shower gel. Granted there was less foam action but I found the clean, unperfumed wash left my skin feeling more hydrated. It really came into its own, however,  after shaving or waxing. Where my usual body wash would leave skin feeling a bit scratchy and puckered, the FAB product left my legs and armpits as smooth as a marble.

Next up was the Ultra Repair Cream for the body and face. I mostly used it for my hands and legs, reason being they were most exposed and neglected. The cream worked fairly well, clearing up any potential scaley surfaces – although I found the smell a bit reminiscent of Greek yoghurt. The best thing about the cream was that it wasn’t greasy – proven by the lack of fingerprints or marks on my smart phone screen – and I could feel a definite improvement after less than three days of use.

Last up was the Age Delay Eye Cream and my favourite of the lot. Eye treatments wouldn’t naturally be on the top of my beauty priority list, but the cream glided on beautifully and left my lids and bags feeling as plump and perky as Nigella Lawson’s boobs. I also found that the cream worked really well just before applying any eye make-up, allowing any eyeliner or shadows to sit more firmly on the lids. The tube is also dinky and great for popping into the old handbag.

So would I recommend the FAB products? Almost definitely. Priced between £8 and going up to £35, the range is hardly going to break the bank  – and I quite enjoyed trying three simple products that made a tangible difference to my skin, without having to digest any beauty jargon. If you’re a skincare-phobe like me, this is the perfect range to start with.

First Aid Beauty products are currently available at Boots.com – click here to see the full range

Have you tried any of the First Aid Beauty products? If so, leave us a comment or tweet us @Style_ThenSome to let us know what you thought of them!

The Oscars 2012 Red Carpet Illustrated | A dozen dresses, one dictator and a dog

At the 2012 Academy Awards red carpet on Sunday night there was an early indication that military chic might be the trend of the the day when Sacha Baron Cohen appeared in full military regalia with a pair of sexy army girls for company (more on that later). But in the end he was on his own – there was the usual abundance of sequins, satin, tulle, trains and stupidly small handbags that you’d expect for the biggest event in the movie awards calendar. Following the artistic amazingness that was our BAFTA Red Carpet Illustrated post, I again asked a host of willing volunteers (thanks, Twitter) to choose their favourite Academy Awards 2012 fashion look and illustrate it. And again the results were so darn cool. Here’s what they came up with.

Angelina Jolie in Versace by Hilary Killam. Visit Hilary’s website.

Angelina Jolie’s black velvet Versace thigh-split dress sparked not one but two comedy moments of the evening: her leg-revealing stance was aped by one of the screenwriters of The Descendants while he was picking up his award, and then the leg got its very own Twitter page. A pretty LEGendary Oscar’s outfit for her then you might say. (Sorry, I couldn’t help myself.) Emma Stone in Giambattista Valli by Amanda Nunes. Visit Amanda’s website.

In a lovely raspberry red shade with a cute bow flourish at the neck, Emma Stone’s Giambattista Valli gown set off her porcelain skin and auburn locks beautifully. Jessica Chastain in Alexander McQueen by Faye West. Visit Faye’s website.

In a sea of block coloured gowns and simple shapes (this is the Oscars after all, and most actresses play it safe for fear of landing on the pages of the glossies with a big red cross by their oufit), Jessica Chastain’s intricately embellished Alexander McQueen was one of the edgier frocks on show.

Penelope Cruz in Armani Prive by Naomi Austin. Visit Naomi’s Facebook page.

Wearing an Armani Prive dress in a delicate shade of powdery duck egg blue and a figure hugging bodice, this kind of classic glamour really suits Penelope Cruz.

Rooney Mara in Givenchy Couture by Janneke de Jong. Visit Janneke’s website. 

Rooney Mara chose Givenchy for the umpteenth time, and while some critics argued the unusual bust detailing was a bit unflattering, you can’t deny that white dress + dark hair + a red carpet = a pretty great equation.

Jennifer Lopez and Cameron Diaz by Dana Bocai. Visit Dana’s website.

It doesn’t look like she’s going to get an Oscar any time soon, but the artist formerly known at J-Lo was widely credited as the winner of the best dressed Oscar attendee thanks to her shimmering striped Zuhair Murad gown. Meanwhile, Cammy from the block went for a Gucci dress that was such a delicate peachy tone it was almost matched her hair. Judy Greer in Monique Lhuillier by Amber Grayson. Visit Amber’s website.

I didn’t even know who Judy Greer was before the Oscars (apparently she was in The Descendants) but this Monique Lhuillier dress sure got my notice. A column of shimmering silver beading on black, it’s like a skyscraper in dress form. Esperanza Spalding by Claire Kearns. Visit Claire’s website.

Singer Esperanza Spalding, who performed at the ceremony, ended up on a lot of best dressed lists, but no amount of Googling could reveal to me who her pale blue dress with the extra long train is by. If you know, then do me a favour and leave a comment below? Cameron Diaz in Gucci by Hilary Killam. Visit Hilary’s website.

A very frothy and shimmery hem was balanced out by a simple top half on Cameron Diaz’s Gucci gown in palest powder pink. Michelle Williams in Louis Vuitton by Lizzie Donegan. Visit Lizzie’s website.

Michelle William’s lost out to Meryl Streep in the Best Actress category, but she totally won fashionwise in this adorable coral silk mousseline Louis Vuitton gown. Berenice Bejo in Elie Saab by Jo Ley. Visit Jo’s website.

I secretly hoped Berenice Bejo would wear one of those amazing flapper dresses from The Artist, but no, she went for a very grown up Elie Saab gown. She was one of several actresses who went for pastel colours, which is also a big spring 2012 catwalk trend. Sacha Baron Cohen as The Dictator by Steve McCarthy. Visit Steve’s website.

So like I said, Sacha Baron Cohen wasn’t just aiming for that ‘military chic’ look, he was in character and causing havoc as General Aladeen to promote new film The Dictator. He claimed his suit was by John Galliano, but somehow I doubt it. If you haven’t seen the video of him pouring Kim Jong-ils ashes over Ryan Seacrest, I strongly advise you do so now. And last but not least, he may not have been clad in designer threads, but how adorable is Uggie, the Jack Russell terrier that starred in The Artist? He’s basically the cutest thing on the Oscar’s red carpet don’t you think? Uggie the dog by Dana Bocai. Visit Dana’s website.

Check out more brilliant fashion illustrations from some of these illustrators in the BAFTAS 2012 Red Carpet Illustrated.

The Good Fashion Show at London Fashion Week

‘Change is just an outfit away’ – the tagline of one of the most exciting shows at London Fashion Week last week.

Good friend of Style & Then Some from the Tweetups, Olivia Pinnock, was involved in organising the launch of TellusFashion‘s ethical boutique on the Saturday of London Fashion Week at Goodenough College near Russell Square last week, which teamed up with the aptly named Good Fashion Show. Lasting almost two hours in total, this show was unique in that the catwalk was broken up into four sections, with exciting performances from Soul singer Omar, an amazing contortionist, and a traditional Indian dancer, amongst others. A piece by performance artist Lisa Simpson, in which she altered the hem of a dress with her sewing machine while it was still being worn by another woman, served as a visual reminder of the purpose of the evening: to reconnect us with the people who make our clothes, to see clothes as adaptable and reusable and to fulfil their creative potential, making the fashion industry less wasteful and more sustainable.

The catwalk part of the show was a mixed bag, but all the more interesting for its eclectic mix of high fashion, pretty dresses, and revolutionary tees with slogans such as ‘Unfuck the world’ and ‘Who made your pants?’ There was a gorgeous on-trend green silk pleated and striped dress which I loved, and also statement pieces like the dress made out of bubble wrap that challenged you to think about materials and waste. A beautiful dress made out of feathers reminded me of the ballet inspired theme at Marchesa at the recent New York Fashion Week – Black Swan influences sticking around?

TellusFashion is making ethical shopping that little bit more accessible. Have a browse of their ethical boutique to see who’s who in the industry. One of my favourite ethical offerings has to be the one shoulder ruffle ‘Cindy’ dress from American eco designers, Annie and Jade.

Many thanks to the lovely Katherine O’Brien, who was Style & Then Some’s photographer for the event.

Alice Lee at London Fashion Week AW12 // Modern Day Miss Havisham

What: Alice Lee

When: Saturday 18th February, 2012

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons Hall

London Fashion Week may be over, but I still have one last show review for you all.  And my reasoning behind waiting until after all the catwalks have been dismantled?  Well, it is because, for me, the Alice Lee show deserved my ‘Best Womenswear Award’ (OK, I know right now that doesn’t mean diddley squat, but watch this space). 

The collection itself is cited as being heavily influenced by dark romanticism. It was held in the upper room of Freemasons Hall – a devastatingly gothic and gorgeously seductive space that only added to the show’s drama.  With Alice Lee being known for their sculptural knitwear, a bevy of models sauntered down the runway in an array of skin-tight dresses and leggings, whilst some covered up in oversized structured coats.  Detailing throughout the collection came in the form of plaited and woven leather that accentuated the models’ curves.  No frills, no-nonsense, as they say.

Easily one of, if not the most polished show I have witnessed this season, for me the collection screamed ‘modern day Miss Havisham.’  The modern day woman, jilted by love yet attempting to blindly carry on.  This was confirmed by styling the models with exaggerated sweeping fringes over their eyes, making them tread carefully down the runway, with every chance of crashing in to each other (thankfully this didn’t happen, and no one was hurt during the making of this show).  The grand finale saw the final model strut precariously down the runway with a bouquet-style mask covering the majority of her face.  Although this did seem slightly odd at the time, after digesting the entire show, I do feel this helped tie up the overall themes the label was attempting to demonstrate.

Images credited to Samantha Meachin.

Hot new designer alert // Tramp in Disguise at London Fashion Week AW12

One of our favourite finds of this Fashion Week was Tramp in Disguise, Sini Moilanen’s beautiful label that was shown as part of the Felicities Presents showcase in Somerset House’s Portico Rooms.

Making up the AW/12 collection are jewel coloured silk-mix dresses, jumpsuits and separates and a heavy dose of cosy-looking chunky knitwear which we can’t wait to see styled together. Inspired by the Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico, Finnish-born and RCA-taught Moilanen gave the collection the title ‘Lady of the Dead’ – but don’t worry there’s not a goth accessory or emo chain look in sight.

Moilanen designed the prints herself, based on the decorated skulls and embellishment of the lively Mexican ritual, but by choosing demure necklines and shapes makes them sophisticated and urban for AW/12. This is only her fourth appearance at London Fashion Week but for a designer who’s already stocked in trendy fashion pit-stop Beyond the Valley, it looks like we caught up with the label at just the right time.

For more info, head to trampindisguise.com. If you want to throw your cash at these designs, Tramp in Disguise womenswear is on sale online at Not Just a Label – prices start at £180.

Image credit: Samantha Meachin

James Small and Ones To Watch AW12 // Where Them Boys At?

After a hard week of Fashion Show grafting from the Style & Then Some team, I decided that the last day, namely the last ever Menswear Day in London, (it will be expanded to three days in June to coincide with the international Menswear Weeks hosted by Milan and Paris) should be given a proper send off.  And let’s face it, when you’re reporting from the front line (or the back row, depending on how lucky you get) it isn’t all glamour and high heels.  

Oh no, it’s elbows and being knocked out by camera lenses in the photographer’s pit, or else craning your neck and spraining your ankles for a good view from the standing section.  But, as I am sure you will agree with me if you too have been in the trenches this season (comrades, I applaud you), that afterwards, when you sit back and drink it all in, it’s just so worth it.

But back to the Boys I hear you say!  Well, yesterday (Wednesday) I decided to enlist the help of two male friends and drag them (actually, they were both well up for it) along to the Ones to Watch:Men and James Small shows respectively.  My aim of the night was to analyse their attitudes towards the shows, and get some variations on male opinions regarding the collections on offer.  After a week of straight womenswear and women’s opinions on Style & Then Some, I thought it would be a nice change of pace to sit back and let the boys do the talking.

First up, was Adam, at the Ones To Watch: Men showcase.  The show saw Bodybound, Joseph Turvey, Julian Zigerli and Tobefrank showcase their AW12 efforts and this was to be Adam’s first ever fashion show.  Despite making comments like ‘that’s a funny little outfit, aye’ outside the venue to several fellow spectators, it was refreshing to hear a guy, who doesn’t work in the fashion industry, tell it like he saw it.  With regards to his favourite collection on offer, Adam declared it was to be Julian Zigerli.   When asked why, it turns out it was because the garments were ’ all using light patterns, you know, Paisley and that’ and that the shades were to his liking- ‘All bold autumn colours, stone, brown and green, like’.

Despite me watching Zigerli’s technical structures in awe, such as a conceptual top that functioned with a built-in backpack, my companion pointed out that this would be damn impractical and useless for the everyday man…something I cannot argue with.  ’You’d have to take your top off to put anything in your bag!’ he quite rightly pointed out.  Damn, why are men so practical!  With regards to the other designers showcasing, me and Adam were in agreement that Bodybound was a shimmering delight (my words, not his).  With gold foiling being a major trend on knitwear for women for the last two seasons, it has finally made its way into menswear.  Just another excuse to steal your BF’s clothes girls.

After a quick Corona, I traded my fashion show newbie in for a seasoned pro.  Daniel Thomas, a menswear designer and fellow Leeds College of Art post-graduate accompanied me to the closing show of the season, the highly anticipated James Small spectacular, sponsored by the amazing Vauxhall Fashion Scout (thank you for letting us decamp at Freemasons Hall all week, by the way!).  After somehow managing to blag second row seats, the show began to quickly fill up with celebs such as Jaime Winstone, Jo Wood, Mr Hudson and, lo and behold, Mr. and Mrs. Kate Moss.  I fear I may have actually been blinded by her engagement ring from across the room.  The collection itself was incredible, and my second companion commented on the show thusly:

    ‘The James Small show was the perfect end to Fashion Week – they always save the best for last.  For me the best pieces from the show were the jersey skinny trousers and the jersey waders were insane. The wool jackets were so stylish and well cut, and the use of pockets throughout the collection was just brilliant.  The patch pockets with flaps can sometimes look really messy but I felt they were really considered in the design of the garments. There was one double-breasted blue jacket with Raglan sleeves which was to die for. It was so well cut and well designed I felt it was like a jacket you would wear in Fashion Heaven.  I really liked the fur in the collection as well – the big hug in a mug jacket was amazing.  So Pete Burns chic. Overall the whole collection was a huge success.  Plus personally I would wear every last one of the garments that came down the catwalk.’

Overall, it was a good little experiment to gain different insights in to the male psyche.  Plus I got to sit back and watch a whole host of male models, and Kate Moss.

   

Prose at London Fashion Week AW12 // Shredded Delight

What: Prose

When: Monday, 20th February at 18:30pm

Where:  Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons Hall

Who: Andrew Stone again!

 

This is the first season I am witness to the label Prose.  And with the show being set to an eerie mix of what I believe to be a depressed French love song, I was not expecting bucket loads of frivolity.  And quite rightly so, as the models sauntered down the runway in what appeared, overall, to be a very sombre and subdued collection, from the colour palette right down to the models slick-backed no-nonsense hair styles and thick-set brows. 

The main focal point of the collection for me, was the wonderful techniques that designer Miriam Lehle employed to bring her vision to life.  The almost shredded-like look of some of the garments, seen on selected jackets and tops, are reminiscent of multicoloured plastic ribbon, adorned garments in fluctuating lengths (you would have to mind you didn’t get this fringing caught in the Tube doors, mind).  This tougher look juxtaposed nicely against Lehle’s softer pieces, with almost feather-like loose knitted laddering cascading down dresses (see last photograph).

Prose is described as an evolution collection, taking inspiration from itself in past seasons and organic structures and shapes, and apparently uses little trend-let inspiration.  As someone who works in trend forecasting though, i do have to say the colour palette employed by the label, all navy, beige, yellow and orange (yes, there is absolutely NO escaping tangerine I am afraid) does seem somewhat trend led.  But hey ho, this could have been a lucky fluke!

 

 

Osman at London Fashion Week AW12 // Taste of the Orient

Who: Osman

Where: BFC Courtyard Showspace, Somerset House

When: Monday 20th February at 7pm

Who: Poppy Delevigne, Theresa May, Harold Tillman, Bip Ling

No that isn’t a typo. The Frow at Osman on Monday night took a surprising political turn, as Home Secretary Theresa May took up her seat alongside BFC Chairman Harold Tillman and star blogger Liberty London Girl. And why not? A favourite of SamCam and Sarah Brown, Osman’s collections have always been a big draw for the fashion-savvy politicos ensconced on Downing Street.

With a set that included a vibrant printed carpet catwalk, this season Osman treated us to a journey through the orient. White shirts were accompanied by ornate brocade collars and matching booties; cape backed blouses and skinny fit trousers were constructed out of richly embroidered chinoiserie fabrics. Even leather skirts, with Osman’s trademark U-shaped hems, were given a blood red lining – instantly lifting the monochromatic looks.

Moving on from a colour scheme of reds, white and black, Osman’s later looks incorporated a moss-green hue – set off brilliantly by bright blue pom-pom and gold accessories by Erickson Beamon. Yes, all the Osman design signatures were there- that elegant curve of the waistline, the neat silhouette of a trouser suit -but refigured in exotic prints and fabrics, here was a collection perfect for brightening up those dark winter days.

Images and video credit: Samantha Meachin

Raeffaele Ascione at London Fashion Week AW12 // Goths will be goths

What: Raeffaele Ascione AW12 at London Fashion Week

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemason’s Hall

When: Sunday 19th September 6pm – 8pm

Images credit: Samantha Meachin.

Holly Fulton at London Fashion Week AW12 // Hose me down

What: Holly Fulton AW12 at London Fashion Week

Where: BFC Showspace, Somerset House

When: Tuesday 21st February 2012, 12pm

Who: Tolula Adeyemi (in Holly Fulton, of course) and a very squished FROW full of editors

Urban gardeners, drop the herb box and listen up – there’s a new green-fingered style icon in town and it’s the AW12 Holly Fulton woman. At the Holly Fulton show this afternoon in a jampacked BFS Showspace, we got our somewhat expected art deco leanings together with brightly coloured rainbow hues of pink and turquoise on ladylike silhouettes.

All this was wrapped into beautifully styled packages of Christian Louboutin heels, Cutler and Gross glasses and messy, sometimes bejewelled buns. And we were told – via press release – that the look was straight out of a saucy Lady Chatterley-style getting-it-on-with-the-gardener scene.

As it always is with fashion, the botanical garden prints and Peter Max-inspired pop art motifs were the most sophisticated imagining of a sexed up nature-loving Lady of the Manor we could ever hope to see. Which doesn’t mean the collection wasn’t fun – there was more than a hint of Versace in the bold pink and black looks (though we preferred the turquoise section). Crossed necklines, cropped jackets and polo necked dresses kept all the frivolity in check.

Fitted skirts were cut at the hems providing another hint of naughtiness and statement earrings and accessorised short sleeves  gave the otherwise stiff outfits some girlish movement. I wasn’t a fan of the swinging, furry bags but otherwise the glasses and jewellery were grown up touches to some pretty loud looks.

The finale look – with a beautiful armoured-style cropped vest and long, skintight skirt – was a wonderful surprise after lots of print and not much texture. I’m sure Ladies looking to pounce on their outdoor staff would stumble just like the final Holly Fulton model did as she took on the bright lights of the BFC catwalk. They’d probably have more chance of being caught by a strong, young man too.

Photos taken with Olympus PEN E-PM1 – for more information see here

Michael van der Ham at London Fashion Week AW12 // Collage for Grown Ups

Who: Michael van der Ham

Where: Topshop Venue at Old Billingsgate Market

When: Monday 20th February at 12pm

Who: Henry Conway, Lulu Kennedy, Susie Bubble, Tolula Adeyemi

Michael van der Ham is one of those designers who will always have a unique design signature. With his magpie-like eye for beautiful textiles and prints, his collections have always maintained that collage, arty aesthetic that has made him a favourite of avant-garde bloggers, Fashion East acolytes and London’s bright young things.

Personally, I was always fascinated by how beautifully he could incorporate patches and drape sashes across his dresses so that the whole thing moved as one. His technical skill is just mind blowing. I must have had sashes on the brain as I dreamt about his AW12 show last night as a spectacle that mimicked The Dance of the Seven Veils from Wilde’s Salome. Okay, so maybe three days of non-stop shows meant I was verging on delirium.

And also way off what he showed us today at the Old Billingsgate Market. Models were made up with Veronica Lake-esque curls as they glided up and down the runway in glamorous looks worthy of the screen goddess. Metallic details were present everywhere, from the jacquard panelling on bodice’s to hems with a delicate metallic floral appliqué – set against apple green separates.

But from the knitted, structured pieces that dominate daywear, we moved towards the night, with sequin-encrusted tops paired with shimmering mini-skirts, satin cigarette pants. The silhouette became more fluid, more nonchalent as MVDH upped the ante for his finale – a series of dainty organza concoctions, diffused floral prints across blouses and – yes- the odd sash here and there. In these lux fabrics and cuts, MVDH’s latest collection shows that grown-ups can do collage too.

Lako Bukia at London Fashion Week AW12 // Hi Ho Silver

What: Lako Bukia

When: Monday 20th February 2012 at 7:30

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Who: My personal favourite celeb of the week, Andrew Stone as well as artist Pandemonia.

The last show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on a Monday and it’s a cold one.  A freezing queue snaked along the walkway outside the venue, eagerly awaiting not only the AW12 offerings by Lako Bukia (a firm favourite of the Style & then Some team – check out last season’s coverage here) but also the guaranteed warmth of hundreds of bodies jam-packed inside.  But alas, mini frozen yoghurts were handed to us on arrival! Oh the irony…

However, once the show started, all negative memories of the last hour outside did pale in insignificance somewhat, as we were greeted by a predominantly jet black and space-aged silver collection.  Picture a modern day Barberella if you will!  Sophisticated, yet playful shirts littered the collection, in sci-fi inspired fabrics, no less, whilst the designer’s piece de le resistance was saved for very last. A sensational shatter-mirror effect dress with sweeping black skirts completely stole the show.  And with a confetti explosion to cap it all off, (to be fair, there was a moment of ‘who got shot?’ panic when this happened) I can honestly say I thoroughly enjoyed Lako Bukia’s futuristic creations.  And with the show being set to a mix of Portishead and Lana Del Rey, two of my absolute faves, I have to admit thus far Lako Bukia is in the running for my favourite show.

Bernard Chandran at London Fashion Week AW12 // Midnight Rebel

Who: Bernard Chandran

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Saturday 18th February, 5.30pm

Who: Pandemonia, Keisha Buchanan

Judging from his latest collection, it’s little wonder that Bernard Chandran has become a favourite of Lady Gaga. As the lights went up to an infectious drum and bass soundtrack, we saw a host of madcap evening looks come down the runway complete with retro barrel role hairstyles.

From funnel necked cocktail dresses, encrusted with Swarovski crystals around the neck, to wetlook black silk trousers and navy satin gowns, here was a collection that was eccentric yet elegant.

As his palette traveled from black and navy to caramel and toffee hues, we also saw Chandran experiment with Autumn staple pieces. Highlights for me included a woman’s tuxedo jacket, with exaggerated lapels and sequin detailing, as well as another black evening gown embellished with multicoloured crystals – something that had a touch of the orient to it.

The range of textiles on offer here also piqued my curiosity and showed off Chandran’s skill: whether it was mixing a delicate lace overlay on a monochrome number with a leather collar, or a fuzzy black knitted dress muddled with metallic threads. The whole collection felt young, fresh and futuristic – a great credit to Chandran’s talent.

Pam Hogg at London Fashion Week AW12 // Definitely NSFW

What: Pam Hogg AW12 at London Fashion Week

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout

When: Sunday 19th February 2012 at 7.30pm

Who: Alexandra Burke, plus loads of ageing celebs including the original supermodel Janice Dickinson, Jo Wood, Duran Duran’s Nick Rhodes and Siouxsie Sioux on the front row. Also actress Jaime Winstone modelled.

I love a bit of LFW drama. And boy was there plenty of it on Sunday night outside the Pam Hogg show. A very pushy lady was being ejected before she’d even got in the door, and she was not happy about it, shrieking and shouting at the bouncers. The drama continued on the catwalk, with a typically jaw-dropping delivery from Hogg. I had to squeeze in at the back of the extremely crowded venue and strain to get a decent view in between other people’s heads, hence my less than perfect photos.

The skintight full-body catsuit is Hogg’s stock in trade, and this season that stock was rendered in myriad variations of red, white and black panels, and silver metallic lycra too, each crowned with a huge neckpiece reminiscent of old fashioned ladies bonnets (or, to be completely honest, those collars that vets put on sick dogs). The suits got skimpier as the show went on, until all that remained in the midst of an entirely see-through gauze number was a tiny strip of black lycra preserving the model’s modesty. Another, which, as you can see from the photo, had Nick Rhodes in stitches, was completely opaque, but had a huge brown fur bonnet attached and a strip of matching fur on the crotch. You’ve got to love Hogg’s sense of humour.

Jaime Winstone’s blushes were saved as she sported a high-necked red, white and grey dress with a stiff full skirt for her turn on the catwalk, during which she stopped halfway for a little dance with another model. There was then an uncharacteristically girly interlude that featured a long sequinned gown and a catsuit, both in baby pink – not a colour you’d associate with punk icon Pam. The sweetness didn’t last for long though, because the final look was pure sex: a confluence of lipstick red bows and a pair of knickers that barely concealed the model’s naughty bits, it could have come straight off the rack at Agent Provocateur. It’s the sort of thing that makes Hogg such a hot LFW ticket each season. When a show features this much nudity, no wonder people are clamouring to get in.

Aquascutum at London Fashion Week AW12 // A lesson in modern tradition

Although we were not lucky enough to attend the Aquascutum AW12 show on Saturday, we couldn’t resist sharing these gorgeous images from the new collection with you.  The quintessentially British label took to the runway yesterday afternoon and showcased an array of quality-crafted pieces in bonded wools, reworked english tweeds, fluid silks, shearling and contemporary leather.  With Joanna Sykes (design director for the label) claiming her inspiration was derived from ‘iconic British interiors and  architectural profiles’ it is no wonder such a sleek and no-nonsense collection came about.

Personally, the aviator-style jacket (pictured below) won my heart, and I am glad to see this style still rocking the catwalk after three consecutive seasons.  It is no wonder really, when the aviator oozes versatility and rock-star attitude (I mean, who doesn’t love a pilot?).  It is also brilliant to see a British label who has been established since 1851, and holds such international clout as Aquascutum does, still showing in the UK.  Long live Britannia!

Florian Jayet at Vauxhall Fashion Scout AW12 // An Egyptian Future

Who: Florian Jayet AW12 at LFW

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Saturday 18th February, 12.30pm

Florian Jayet may be a Frenchman by birth but his latest Autumn Winter collection took it’s cue from tribal marking and ancient Egyptian culture. Models opened the show at the Freemason’s Hall sporting leather headpieces, threaded with delicate silver chains while wearing a selection of tribal printed body-con dresses and leggings, in a palette of shimmering greys, limes and midnight blues.

But though the prints may have been a nod to the past, the textiles and cuts at Jayet’s show were a thing of the future. Some looks began incorporating reptile-like scales on sleeves and hems, as others flirted with exaggerated waist pleating and heavily structured waistcoats. Highlights included a series of midnight blue satin separates – from ruched skinny fit trousers to a peplum shaped dress, accessorised with a necklace that looked like it was made of blonde  human hair.

Elsewhere accessories finished off his futuristic looks, whether it was a pair of killer pumps with heels shaped as wings or a stunning chain head pieces that fell over models’ faces like a metallic waterfall. Judging from the rapturous applause at the end of the show, it seems Jayet’s AW12 collection will provide him with even more cult followers.

Photos taken with Olympus PEN E-PM1 – for more information see here

Eudon Choi at London Fashion Week AW12 // Here’s Looking At You Kid

What: Eudon Choi AW12 at LFW

Where: Portico Rooms, Somerset House

When: Saturday 18th February, 6.45pm

Who: Susie Bubble and Elle staffers waiting to go into the 7.30pm Eudon Choi show

Walking into the Terra Nova (new land) that designer Eudon Choi had created for himself in the Somerset House Portico Rooms, we were greeted by darkness and a projection of nature footage in moody monochrome. Not exactly your everyday salon show.

Eudon Choi for AW12 was refreshingly and obviously autumn and winterwear with fur lined hoods, a muted and sophsticated colour palette (bar a pop of blue) and the least sexy pair of elbow-length gloves I have ever seen. What looked like swim caps – in black, white or doused in sequins – adorned some of the models’ heads and it’s no surprise, what with Choi’s menswear background, that the focus was on beautiful tailoring. His womenswear training at the RCA hasn’t been forgotten though. The stand out looks were a two tone, textured coat that looked straight out of Proenza Schouler and an asymmetrical, fitted top paired with a demure knee-length (but sexily slit) skirt. Both are strong and feminine without screaming ‘alpha female’.

Choi’s team staged a wonderful “fashion moment” (above) that gently unfolded look by look. The models arranged themselves on the white chairs and stools, grabbing a pair of binoculars each and staring into the crowd – who, as any seasoned LFW goers will know, were hell bent on papping the womenswear to within a thread of its life. The ensemble reminded me of a female photographer who took snaps of any man that wolf-whistled or heckled at her in the street. And even though it’s more likely Choi had his Terra Nova theme in mind, I’m willing to agree to disagree with the Korean wunderkid.

Images credit: Samantha Meachin, Katie Wright

Shao Yen at London Fashion Week AW12 // Olympic Tweed

What: Shao Yen AW12

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Covent Garden

When: Saturday 18th February, 2012

Our final show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on the second day of London Fashion Week was somewhat of a bunfight (I hope this northern expression isn’t lost on too many of our Southern readers).  With a presentation being held by Shao Yen straight after a jam-packed Bernard Chandran catwalk show downstairs, all feet hop-footed it up the grand staircase to get a glimpse of the Taiwanese-born designer’s AW12 show, entitled ‘Class’.

With models perched on plinths around the show space, it did become somewhat of a mission to fight our way across (complimentary cider in hand), and dodge the oddly placed decorative TVs on the floor.  However, despite the blatant flaunting of health and safety rules, I thoroughly enjoyed being able to get up close and personal with the collection and behold the subtle detailing that controlled it.

The use of traditional tweed fabric and classic shapes were turned on their heads by Yen, who evolved these looks by adding a contemporary sports twist.  Elasticated cuffs and waistbands, as well as sporty drawstring adorned trousers and jackets, whilst classic tailored shirts were cropped and given unusual fluid lined hems.  The theme of the collection clearly reflected (ok, so the name ‘class’ is somewhat of a giveaway) a marriage between different social standing.

The use of very traditional fabrics in a thoroughly modern way goes against the general grain, but for Shao Yen’s AW12 collection, it definitely works, and has provided one of the most interesting collections I have seen so far this week, and all very fitting with the impending Olympics!  Let’s wait and see if the Queen will be spotted sporting a tweed tracksuit at the Opening Ceremony!

Christopher Raeburn at London Fashion Week AW12 // The Big Freeze

What? Christopher Raeburn Presentation ‘Freeze’ AW12

Where? The portico Rooms (Somerset House)

When? Saturday 18th February 2012 4:20pm

Who? Some amazing inflatable critters (see photo!)

After a mad dash from Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Freemasons’ Hall yesterday afternoon, in the pouring rain, and whilst tottering along in wildly inappropriate wedges (hey, if you can’t dress up in LFW when can you?) over to Somerset House, I arrived at the Christopher Raeburn Presentation looking somewhat bedraggled.  But a last minute ticket opportunity was not going to be wasted, come rain or shine!  And boy, am I glad I managed to get my sopping wet socks through the door to experience Raeburn’s AW12 presentation, appropriately entitled ‘Freeze’.

The presentation itself was a very slick and simple affair, with limited decoration except for the giant inflatable see-through critters taking residence in the corners of the room (my inner child was going insane).  And all this worked wonders as it let the immaculate and detail-driven collection speak volumes for itself.

With Raeburn’s signature style never venturing far from a military feel, the AW12 line revealed a collection which married exceptional function and protection from the elements with sublime style.  Gilets, duffel coats and bomber jackets took centre stage, in a variety of shades from navy blues and charcoal greys to surprising splashes of sunshine yellow and blancmange pink; somewhat of a change of pace for Raeburn compared to previous seasons – no wonder as he has dubbed ‘Freeze’ his most feminine collection to date.

Already a NEWGEN Women’s and British Fashion Award winner, and with a new accessories line launching for AW12 (again, no skimping on utility and functionality here) there cannot be anyway but up for Raeburn.  Well, if you have Philip Green’s backing you can’t be going wrong.

Spijkers en Spijkers at London Fashion Week AW12 // Penniless Eccentrics

What: Spijkers en Spijkers AW2012

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Covent Garden

When: Saturday 18th February, 2012

Who: On the way out we were behind singer Kate Nash.

Last season I loved, and I mean LOVED, Spijkers and Spijkers at LFW. So I was pleased to see some echoes of SS12′s fantastic 1920′s vibe remained for autumn/winter. Skipping forward precisely one decade, this time the focus was on the thirties. Ewing Bouvier Beale and ‘Little Edie’ were the muses – a mother and daughter duo who were known for their glamorous but eccentric wardrobes and hectic social lives, well, before they were left abandoned and penniless when Mr Beale upped and left one day, that is.

Whimsical fairground waltz music opened the show and the whimsy continued on the catwalk. Again the Dutch designer twins sent out a lot of silk knee length dresses constructed of graphic coloured panels but the colour palette was much richer than last season – mustard yellow, deep purple and burnt orange clashed in scallopped panels and circular tessellating prints. A couple of mannish trouser suits played up the androdgyny slant the designers are so fond of.

Fashion writer Tim Blanks said something recently about fans of Marni liking the ‘sensuality of expression’ the clothes afford, rather than any obvious sexiness, and the same could be said of the Spijkers’ output this season. Some of these looks were very busy visually, especially where prints were doubled up on jackets and dresses. Pulled apart, though, they’re much more manageable. And for evening the eccentricity factor worked really well with feathery fringing and cute little fabric bird brooches, the ‘birds of paradise’ for which the show was named. The only question that remains now is: will Spijkers en Spijkers head for the 1940′s next season?

Image and Video credit: Samantha Meachin.