Dans La Vie at London Fashion Week AW12 // J Pop

What: Dans La Vie

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout

When: Saturday 18th September 1pm

The bass was heavy and the coats were shiny at Dans La Vie this season. After showing us plasticky florals for Spring/Summer we got a mixture of 60s pop art and Japanese high priest references in the same 50s fitted dress and trench coat shapes we’re familiar with.

The outerwear had fun touches like leopard print fur or grey knitwear collars but to be honest it didn’t need it. Dans La Vie showed every crazy coat you could ever imagine wearing – from patent snakeskin to hoods with a zip coming down over the model’s head.

Tulle and tutu’s burst out from beneath a few biker jackets plus the relaxed sportswear brought the extravaganza down a notch. We also got some fun headwear in the form of what looked like a bright blue egg bursting and a circular purple and orange piece.

The highlights of the show for us were actually the round sunglasses (especially the blue ones that opened the show) and the pink highlights in some of the blonde haired models. It doesn’t always have to be the clothes you fall in love with.

Image and Video credit: Samantha Meachin.

Check out the rest of Style & Then Some’s LFW coverage here.

Elisa Palomino at London Fashion Week AW 2012 // Exotic flowers

What? Elisa Palomino

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons’ Hall

When? Saturday 18th February 2012, 10:30am

I could tell from the invite that Elisa Palomino’s show was going to be floral. Exotic, orchid-like bursts of colour splashed across the catwalk, and silouettes were decidedly 1930′s Hollywood glamour with a few flapper dropped waists appearing again. (It’s nice to see that this is a trend that will carry through to the Winter, in case you’re considering investing in any 1920′s style garb.)

Elaborate hair pieces unfolded their petals of net and satin in hues of yellow and cerise, with black offsetting the bright colours. Velvet, satin, chiffon, and feather trimmings gave the impression that the designer had raided some old-school Hollywood actress’ wardrobe – which I was thoroughly in the mood for after recently seeing the brilliant film, The Artist.

Silks printed and embroidered with Oriental patterns and sheer negligees increased the sense of behind the scenes luxury. I’ve noticed a lot of leopard print around this season, and it was out in strong force at the end of this show, too. (Glamour edging towards the tackier end of the spectrum?)

Photos taken by an Olympus E-PM1

Phoebe English at London Fashion Week AW 12 // Pops of Pink

Who: Phoebe English

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Friday 17th February, 6.30pm

Who: Susie Bubble, Elle UK and the Style and Then Some team

Following hot on the heels of the One’s To Watch show, VFS alumnus Phoebe English staged her first solo offering at the Freemason’s Hall. Against a  soundtrack by Gabriel Bruce, we saw models emerge on the catwalk in laser cut ra-ra skirts with leather panelling, as well as sporty dresses with ruched waistlines and zig-zagging back straps.

With the lyric ‘I’ve got this feeling that we’re dead’ playing languorously (and on loop), as well as clothes showcased in a palette that was exclusively black and grey – things were looking pretty dreary. The name of the collection – ‘Sleep Paralysis’ – added to this moribund atmosphere. Almost anticipating this, however, English suddenly swerved into a sorbet pink colour scheme and reinvigorated her separates. Highlights included a picked cotton dress, with hidden pleated detailing on the back hem as well as the (previously mentioned) sporty dresses, but this time with a dense wool felt overlay on the skirt. The jump in to sorbet shades added a fresh point of contrast and I can see why English deserves her solo spot on  the VFS schedule.

Photos taken with Olympus PEN E-PM1 – for more information see here 

Ones to Watch @ Vauxhall Fashion Scout AW 12 // Bright Young Things

Who: One’s to Watch @ Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Friday 17th February, 4.30pm

Who: Susie Lau, the blogger behind Style Bubble

You could tell this was one of VFS’s most popular shows of the season, what with the half-hour delay and unusually busy crowd waiting in the foyer of the Freemason’s Hall. I counted over a dozen blue-rinse chignons and six trays of complimentary SNOG frozen yoghurt pass me before we were ushered into the catwalk space.

Stomachs and tempers soothed, this year’s OTW show opened with the work of Koreon-born Heohwan Simulton, whose collection echoed the designer’s background in menswear design. On offer this season, we saw cropped scoop-necked jackets with leather panelling, ankle-grazing tailored trousers and tangerine silk shifts (well it is THE colour of the year, apparently). But what started as a beatnik influenced collection – thanks to a remarkable number of plain black polo necks featured – slowly turned into the abstract. There was a hint of black velour on separates and a smattering of multicolored perspex tassels on shift dresses. It wasn’t unwearable, just an unexpected turn and one I’m sure could provide a nice shot of color in our otherwise dreary autumn wardrobes.

Next up was Myrza de Muynck and my second favourite of the lot. With her trademark buoyancy, the collection was a youthful, sporty and a real visual delight. Yes, a lot of what we’re seeing on the high street is saturated with the ubiquitous pastel trend, but Muynck modernised the candy palette using sporty materials and some interesting black paintbrush detailing.

Favourites of the show included padded mint trousers, exaggerated knit tank dresses – which reminded me a bit of the House of Holland AW11 collection – and a nice sky blue jumpsuit. Perhaps some critics would have found it a bit saccharine for their liking but I’ve always had a sweet tooth.

Anne Sofie Madsen went next and the contrast between this and Muynck’s collection couldn’t be more marked. As the first model walked down the catwalk in a leather dress with a Navaho-inspired skirt, I thought the collection was heading towards the Americas. Text-book error. If I had done my homework thoroughly, I would have known that Madsen’s aesthetic silently echoes her Scandanavian roots.

What followed was a series of latticed leather dresses, cocktail dresses embellished with delicate gold and silver chains and a healthy selection of chiffon blouses – softened by the occasional bit of floral rope arrangement. I know. It sounds bonkers and, quite frankly, at points it was. I didn’t know if I was watching a Gareth Pugh in-the-making, a master couturier in-the-making or someone who didn’t trust her talent enough (and it was there, in shed loads) to distill the collection further before showing.

The final hurrah came courtesy of fourth and final designer Nova Chiu. Having had previous stints at Matthew Williamson and Richard Nicoll, you can see where Chiu has developed her knack for using eye-popping color and sumptuous fabrics. She also uses digital printing techniques, which is probably how she achieved such a masterly mash-up of Asian, American and Oriental prints, seen on her multilayered dresses or structural jackets.

The whole thing was like watching the lovechild (or children, whatever) of the East. She also nailed it down to every detail. We saw Yeti-styled ear muffs, blouses that used protruding origami pleats and even some tassled earrings that looked like they same straight out of a Moroccan silk souk. Definitely my favourite from this year’s OTW collective.

Photos taken with Olympus Pen E-PM1 – see here for further details

Francesca Marotta at London Fashion Week A/W 12 // If it’s not Baroque

What? Francesca Marotta

Where? My Beautiful Fashion, Goldsmiths’ Hall

When? Friday, February 17th 2012 at 2pm

The richly painted ceilings, gold pillars, sweeping staircases, and stained glass windows of Goldsmith’s Hall offset Marotta’s dark Baroque themed show beautifully.

Models swathed in black lace embroidered with sparkling beads showcased dramatically billowing skirts. There was something religious about the black lace head coverings, and it would not have looked out of place if the models had been carrying rosaries.

As the show progressed, however, the Baroque influence gave way to a more modern look, with neon perspex jewellery, dark-toned tweed miniskirts that sat on the waist with loose, unstructured jackets thrown over the top.

The real show-stealer was a dramatic bright red lace cape which went for full on dramatic effect, the long train draping down the runway (I’m really sad that the picture, above, didn’t come out very well because it was pretty cool). In fact, capes were a big deal throughout the whole show; I wanted the little black number with red lining. Very sexy Scottish widow.

There was a large dose of romance, drama, and mystery on the catwalk yesterday afternoon.

Photos taken with the Olympus E-PM1

Zoe Jordan at London Fashion Week // Cowgirls and tomboys

‘My favourite show so far’ – that was what I tweeted straight after former ELLE Talent Launch Pad Award Zoe Jordan‘s show. Now I realise that’s not a huge statement to make on day one of London Fashion Week, but it really was a darn good show.

And at the risk of coming out with two moronic utterances in as many paragraphs, this might sound like a stupid thing to say about a fashion show, but it really was all about the clothes. Bear with me here. What I mean is it wasn’t about the theatricality of the production or the spectacular venue or which supers were walking or some pretentious concept. Quite simply, these were clothes that I could imagine in the shops, and on people on the streets, right now. And those people would look good. In a slouchy maroon crochet jumper and pegleg trousers for instance, or a fitted black leather zip up jacket, or a pair of boyish leather shorts. It wasn’t all aimed at stick thin teenagers thought – there were plenty of softly demure knee-length chiffon and lace dresses often styled with chunky grey or fawn knitwear and a waist cinching belt. These Navajo-esque blanket cardigans, plus the stiff wide-brimmed hats and liberal use of leather (in maroon too, a really nice touch) gave an Americana feel throughout. Whatever the origins, this is a collection that will look good on the streets of any city.

Mattijs at London Fashion Week AW12 // Who said C3PO wasn’t a style icon?

What? Mattijs

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout

When? Saturday 18th February 2012 11:15am

Who? Our friend (blogger) Jamie London Boy

Who’d ever though C3PO would be in Vogue?  Mattijs’ AW12-13 collection, aptly entitled ‘Starburst’ to reflect the heavily Sci-fi themed show, paid homage and drew inspiration from some unlikely characters… from a Galaxy far, far away no less. C3PO, R2D2, Princess Leia and Atreyu from the ‘Never Ending Story’ formed the basis of the collection.  Unfortunately, however, no Harrison Ford lookalikes were in attendance.

Despite my reservations pre-show (having read the press release, and being a life-long Star Wars Hater) I have to admit the colour palette laid down on the runway was near perfect, and as anyone knows, the best way to get me to change my mind is to distract me with something gold and shiny.  Thus, an array of gorgeous lame golds and tough jet black leather, teamed with splashes of Tangerine Tango orange (we TOLD you this would happen) bought a smile to my face.  I’m sure Chewy would have agreed.  This quickly transcended in to a wash of oceanic blues and mint to seaweed green hues, as if the collection was reenacting some lost Star Wars episode in which the Rebel Alliance did battle with the fallen city of Atlantis (I can’t be sure, but I think I spied some gold shell bead work going on).

Accessories also played a major part in the theme of the show, with metallic chokers and sci-fi styled cuffs adorning the models, finishing off the look with their ‘don’t mess with the Croydon facelift’ hair dos.  However, I would suggest sticking to gold for this, as I spied a bronze choker that was very reminiscent of the copper arthritis bangles you get down the chemist.

Of course, the collection wouldn’t be a Mattijs collection if it wasn’t peppered with pleating.  Incredible palazzo pants and midi length dresses glided down the runway, reaffirming pleats are every girl’s best friend, as previously mentioned by our Sophie Caldecott here.  Overall, the Mattijs AW12 collection travelled through the downright wearable, through to the self-styled Haute Couture, something the designer is keen to reveal in his press release.  However, with a few safety pins and fastenings on display which clearly shouldn’t have been, it may be a season or two yet before the label can truly play with the Haute Couture big boys.

Fam Irvoll at London Fashion Week A/W 12 // Monster Mash

What? Fam Irvoll

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons’ Hall

When? Friday 17th February 2012 12:30pm

Oversized sweaters, leggins, baby doll dresses, and bright neon monster prints: fun is the word that really defines Fam Irvoll’s whimsical Autumn/Winter collection. Girly and tomboy aesthetics clashed with each other and fought for dominance in the somewhat unlikely pairing of trainers and ballerina tulle.

There was more than a dash of 80s disco about the zaney colour combinations. (Except that instead of perms, slick pony tails and quiffs were the order of the day.) Yellow eye shadow and turquoise lipstick ensured that even the more conservative outfits had an element of monsterly-weirdness to them.

Peter pan collars and big cuddly-toy style monsters worn as backpacks and replacements for bowties, as well as Irvoll’s childlike monster prints, were full of child-like energy. It was entirely appropriate then, when some very bouncy children joined the catwalk in bright turquoise onesies and sportswear towards the end of the show. Let the wild rumpus begin…

What we wore // LFW Day 1

 

Dipal: Topshop maxi dress, black vintage dress (underneath), Chelsea boots, and black Topshop leather jacket.

Sophie: Pret a Portobello skirt, Hollister camisole, vintage Mulberry belt, vintage Ralph Lauren cardigan, boots from Urban Outfitters.

Georgia Hardinge at London Fashion Week AW12 // Whatever will be, will be (pretty)

What? Georgia Hardinge

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout

When? Friday 17th February 2012 7.30pm

Who? Kate Nash, Amelia Gregory

Check out the rest of Style & Then Some’s LFW coverage here.

Georgia Hardinge was our last show of the day on Friday but it was so worth waiting for. We wouldn’t lie about these things either as we’d be waiting over half an hour for the privilege. But the opening bars of Que Sera Sera set the scene – warm vocals fit for the opening looks of grown up mustard suedes and demure, beige lace up boots.

For AW12, Hardinge showed an interesting mix of blouses, pants and dresses in jewel tones – blues, plums – and printed bodycon jersey dresses with a hint of knitwear thrown in. Some very Miss Marple-esque wide-brimmed bowler hats completed the set-up.

Sometimes the justaposition worked particularly beautifully- as in the greyish-beige knitted jumper with attached snood which Hardinge  layered over a fitted ankle length white and purple dyed skirt. The skirt lengths made it feel lean and effortless and we were a big fan of the boxy pleated boleros in cream and plum.

Things got a bit sculptural around the hip zone for the last AW12 look – this dress encased in a dress wasn’t exactly party wear. But it was a bold taste of what we are yet to see from this exciting British designer – plus she gets bonus Style and Then Some points for looking very chic in her own designs for the bow at the end.

Apologies for the shaky video footage – let’s just say Georgia Hardinge made us go weak at the knees by the time the finale rolled round.

 

Images and Video credit: Samantha Meachin