Michael van der Ham at London Fashion Week AW12 // Collage for Grown Ups
Who: Michael van der Ham
Where: Topshop Venue at Old Billingsgate Market
When: Monday 20th February at 12pm
Who: Henry Conway, Lulu Kennedy, Susie Bubble, Tolula Adeyemi
Michael van der Ham is one of those designers who will always have a unique design signature. With his magpie-like eye for beautiful textiles and prints, his collections have always maintained that collage, arty aesthetic that has made him a favourite of avant-garde bloggers, Fashion East acolytes and London’s bright young things.
Personally, I was always fascinated by how beautifully he could incorporate patches and drape sashes across his dresses so that the whole thing moved as one. His technical skill is just mind blowing. I must have had sashes on the brain as I dreamt about his AW12 show last night as a spectacle that mimicked The Dance of the Seven Veils from Wilde’s Salome. Okay, so maybe three days of non-stop shows meant I was verging on delirium.
And also way off what he showed us today at the Old Billingsgate Market. Models were made up with Veronica Lake-esque curls as they glided up and down the runway in glamorous looks worthy of the screen goddess. Metallic details were present everywhere, from the jacquard panelling on bodice’s to hems with a delicate metallic floral appliqué – set against apple green separates.
But from the knitted, structured pieces that dominate daywear, we moved towards the night, with sequin-encrusted tops paired with shimmering mini-skirts, satin cigarette pants. The silhouette became more fluid, more nonchalent as MVDH upped the ante for his finale – a series of dainty organza concoctions, diffused floral prints across blouses and – yes- the odd sash here and there. In these lux fabrics and cuts, MVDH’s latest collection shows that grown-ups can do collage too.
