What Carine Did Next

Cast your minds back a year or so. The fashion world was rocked by the sudden news of Carine Roitfeld’s departure from French Vogue and the rumor mill began churning on how her successor, Emmanuelle Alt, would find taking over the reigns.

But she wasn’t due to be away from the world of fashion magazines for long. Between launching a book with Karl Lagerfeld and numerous design consultancy stints, it turns out Ms Roitfeld has also been working on a new fashion tome. Titled ‘CR’, the editrix told WWD that the magazine seeks to be a ““celebration of fashion and creativity”.

So what are we in for?

Judging from the mocked up spreads sent to advertisers and potential contributors, created around the theme of ‘obsession’, this is one mutha of a fashion magazine. Gone are the details and diary sections that we have grown so accustomed to in our monthly glossies. Instead, we can expect 288 pages of extended fashion stories, long-format articles (such a rare yet needed thing in fashion journalism), with even the adverts strongly editorialised.

For those culture vultures out there worrying about how they are going to fill out their diaries, fear not. Roitfeld has also planned to create a distinct digital voice for the mag, with lots of interactive treats and cultural highlights showcased online instead. It’s also a clever pull for consumers to take a get sneaky peek at trailers for upcoming issues.

There is a sort of excitement around the launch of CR that reminds me of when Conde Nast’s LOVE magazine first hit the newstands back in 2009. If the success of that bi-annual is anything to go by, every issue of CR is going to be covetable. Set to launch in September 2012, make sure you get the date in the diary

To find out more about the CR Fashion Book, read WWD’s original post on the announcement here

Hawksmoor Spitalfields Bar

I remember when I lost my steak virginity. It was a rickety little bistro somewhere off Rue Bonaparte in Paris, and I was completely nonplussed when I was asked by my rather handsome waiter, “Bleu, Saignant, A point or Bien Cuit?” What arrived on my plate looked like charcoal and as I crunched my way through it, with copious amounts of water, I kept thinking “Is this what I have been missing out on? Pah!”

Clearly, I had ordered badly. Six years on, my appetite for a good steak dinner will never be satiated. I day dream about porterhouse steaks and fillet steaks, and have an unhealthy curiosity for what particular restaurants put in their ‘secret’ house sauces, like the green gooey one at Le Relais de Venise in Marylebone.

When it comes to the great British steakhouse,  people can get a bit evangelical about their favorites – and none more so than The Hawksmoor chain. I’m not sure if it’s because of their beautifully sourced meat from The Ginger Pig, the copper-gilded interiors or knockout cocktail menus. I am sure that it’s a brilliant way to squander a spare afternoon, greedily consuming a Chateaubriand steak with a side of truffled macaroni cheese and lobster. You do need a whole afternoon mind, as you slowly pull yourself out of one of the most divine meat comas you’ll ever experience.

See. Right there. Evangelical.

A few weeks ago The Hawksmoor team announced via Twitter that they would run a soft launch of their snazzy new bar menu at their Spitalfields branch. Unlike some of the more trendy establishments in London that refuse to have a booking policy (Burger & Lobster, Meat Liquor, Polpo etc. etc.), the bar was taking reservations. Much like the aforementioned restaurants, however, getting a table was a bitch. I managed it – just – but that was largely thanks to a lawyer friend with an unhealthy obsession with his Twitter feed.

The bar itself was situated in the basement of the flagship restaurant, and made up for the lack of natural daylight with sparkling brass bar tops and exposed peacock-green colored tiles, all rounded off with waiters sporting a range of fluoro Hawaiian-themed shirts. I don’t think it was intentional but collectively, it certainly brightened the place up. Between the group, we scoffed the friar sandwich, chilli cheese dog and cheeseburger, all set off with sides of shortrib nuggets (comes with a great dip), smashed cucumbers and an oxtail poutine (Canadian cheesy chips and gravy, topped with braised oxtail). For pudding, I opted for the peanut butter shortbread with salted caramel ice cream – a lovely little deconstructed number, with just the right balance of sweet and salt for my liking.

The real star in show here, however,  is the establishment’s cocktail menu – featuring beauties like the ‘Shakey Pete Ginger Brew’ (gin, ginger, lemon and London pride) and the ‘Nuclear Banana Daquiri’ (rum, chartreuse, banana and lime). They also do a ‘Desert Island Drinks’ list chosen by a Hawkmoor Bartender each month. Coming in at £40 – £50 a head including drinks, the place is great value for the quality of the food you get and a nice alternative to the quasi-religious Hawksmoor steak experience. Only just, mind you.

Have you tried the bar at The Hawsmoor Spitalfields? If so, let us know what you thought in the comments box below or @Style_thenSome!

Skin Savers // First Aid Beauty

When it comes to skincare, I’m usually a wash-and-go kind of gal. If I’m feeling particularly adventurous, I might ransack my mother’s beauty draw now and then, but being both time and money-poor, her snazzy Darphin and REN products often remain untouched after a few weeks of furious buffing, cleansing and exfoliation.

This is not good. To cover up any bumps or blemishes, I have to apply more make-up than even Lauren Goodger could dream of. It also means that I am destined for a complexion of a plucked turkey, and last time I checked poultry chic isn’t the best look. But problem is, there are so many technical terms and jargon involved when buying skincare products that I’m completely nonplussed and too scared to ask for help in case I look like an idiot.

I was sent a few tester products by the nice people at First Aid Beauty (FAB) before London Fashion Week. Designed for sensitive skin types, the first thing I liked about the range was it said exactly what it did on the front. Yes, the best beauty houses might favour a minimalist aesthetic for their products, but I respected that they eschewed this (boring) design principle in favour of good old facts and some retro packaging. Respect.

The first product I tried was the Gentle Body Wash which, on a day-to-day basis, did the same thing as my ordinary shower gel. Granted there was less foam action but I found the clean, unperfumed wash left my skin feeling more hydrated. It really came into its own, however,  after shaving or waxing. Where my usual body wash would leave skin feeling a bit scratchy and puckered, the FAB product left my legs and armpits as smooth as a marble.

Next up was the Ultra Repair Cream for the body and face. I mostly used it for my hands and legs, reason being they were most exposed and neglected. The cream worked fairly well, clearing up any potential scaley surfaces – although I found the smell a bit reminiscent of Greek yoghurt. The best thing about the cream was that it wasn’t greasy – proven by the lack of fingerprints or marks on my smart phone screen – and I could feel a definite improvement after less than three days of use.

Last up was the Age Delay Eye Cream and my favourite of the lot. Eye treatments wouldn’t naturally be on the top of my beauty priority list, but the cream glided on beautifully and left my lids and bags feeling as plump and perky as Nigella Lawson’s boobs. I also found that the cream worked really well just before applying any eye make-up, allowing any eyeliner or shadows to sit more firmly on the lids. The tube is also dinky and great for popping into the old handbag.

So would I recommend the FAB products? Almost definitely. Priced between £8 and going up to £35, the range is hardly going to break the bank  – and I quite enjoyed trying three simple products that made a tangible difference to my skin, without having to digest any beauty jargon. If you’re a skincare-phobe like me, this is the perfect range to start with.

First Aid Beauty products are currently available at Boots.com – click here to see the full range

Have you tried any of the First Aid Beauty products? If so, leave us a comment or tweet us @Style_ThenSome to let us know what you thought of them!

Osman at London Fashion Week AW12 // Taste of the Orient

Who: Osman

Where: BFC Courtyard Showspace, Somerset House

When: Monday 20th February at 7pm

Who: Poppy Delevigne, Theresa May, Harold Tillman, Bip Ling

No that isn’t a typo. The Frow at Osman on Monday night took a surprising political turn, as Home Secretary Theresa May took up her seat alongside BFC Chairman Harold Tillman and star blogger Liberty London Girl. And why not? A favourite of SamCam and Sarah Brown, Osman’s collections have always been a big draw for the fashion-savvy politicos ensconced on Downing Street.

With a set that included a vibrant printed carpet catwalk, this season Osman treated us to a journey through the orient. White shirts were accompanied by ornate brocade collars and matching booties; cape backed blouses and skinny fit trousers were constructed out of richly embroidered chinoiserie fabrics. Even leather skirts, with Osman’s trademark U-shaped hems, were given a blood red lining – instantly lifting the monochromatic looks.

Moving on from a colour scheme of reds, white and black, Osman’s later looks incorporated a moss-green hue – set off brilliantly by bright blue pom-pom and gold accessories by Erickson Beamon. Yes, all the Osman design signatures were there- that elegant curve of the waistline, the neat silhouette of a trouser suit -but refigured in exotic prints and fabrics, here was a collection perfect for brightening up those dark winter days.

Images and video credit: Samantha Meachin

Michael van der Ham at London Fashion Week AW12 // Collage for Grown Ups

Who: Michael van der Ham

Where: Topshop Venue at Old Billingsgate Market

When: Monday 20th February at 12pm

Who: Henry Conway, Lulu Kennedy, Susie Bubble, Tolula Adeyemi

Michael van der Ham is one of those designers who will always have a unique design signature. With his magpie-like eye for beautiful textiles and prints, his collections have always maintained that collage, arty aesthetic that has made him a favourite of avant-garde bloggers, Fashion East acolytes and London’s bright young things.

Personally, I was always fascinated by how beautifully he could incorporate patches and drape sashes across his dresses so that the whole thing moved as one. His technical skill is just mind blowing. I must have had sashes on the brain as I dreamt about his AW12 show last night as a spectacle that mimicked The Dance of the Seven Veils from Wilde’s Salome. Okay, so maybe three days of non-stop shows meant I was verging on delirium.

And also way off what he showed us today at the Old Billingsgate Market. Models were made up with Veronica Lake-esque curls as they glided up and down the runway in glamorous looks worthy of the screen goddess. Metallic details were present everywhere, from the jacquard panelling on bodice’s to hems with a delicate metallic floral appliqué – set against apple green separates.

But from the knitted, structured pieces that dominate daywear, we moved towards the night, with sequin-encrusted tops paired with shimmering mini-skirts, satin cigarette pants. The silhouette became more fluid, more nonchalent as MVDH upped the ante for his finale – a series of dainty organza concoctions, diffused floral prints across blouses and – yes- the odd sash here and there. In these lux fabrics and cuts, MVDH’s latest collection shows that grown-ups can do collage too.

Bernard Chandran at London Fashion Week AW12 // Midnight Rebel

Who: Bernard Chandran

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Saturday 18th February, 5.30pm

Who: Pandemonia, Keisha Buchanan

Judging from his latest collection, it’s little wonder that Bernard Chandran has become a favourite of Lady Gaga. As the lights went up to an infectious drum and bass soundtrack, we saw a host of madcap evening looks come down the runway complete with retro barrel role hairstyles.

From funnel necked cocktail dresses, encrusted with Swarovski crystals around the neck, to wetlook black silk trousers and navy satin gowns, here was a collection that was eccentric yet elegant.

As his palette traveled from black and navy to caramel and toffee hues, we also saw Chandran experiment with Autumn staple pieces. Highlights for me included a woman’s tuxedo jacket, with exaggerated lapels and sequin detailing, as well as another black evening gown embellished with multicoloured crystals – something that had a touch of the orient to it.

The range of textiles on offer here also piqued my curiosity and showed off Chandran’s skill: whether it was mixing a delicate lace overlay on a monochrome number with a leather collar, or a fuzzy black knitted dress muddled with metallic threads. The whole collection felt young, fresh and futuristic – a great credit to Chandran’s talent.

Florian Jayet at Vauxhall Fashion Scout AW12 // An Egyptian Future

Who: Florian Jayet AW12 at LFW

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Saturday 18th February, 12.30pm

Florian Jayet may be a Frenchman by birth but his latest Autumn Winter collection took it’s cue from tribal marking and ancient Egyptian culture. Models opened the show at the Freemason’s Hall sporting leather headpieces, threaded with delicate silver chains while wearing a selection of tribal printed body-con dresses and leggings, in a palette of shimmering greys, limes and midnight blues.

But though the prints may have been a nod to the past, the textiles and cuts at Jayet’s show were a thing of the future. Some looks began incorporating reptile-like scales on sleeves and hems, as others flirted with exaggerated waist pleating and heavily structured waistcoats. Highlights included a series of midnight blue satin separates – from ruched skinny fit trousers to a peplum shaped dress, accessorised with a necklace that looked like it was made of blonde  human hair.

Elsewhere accessories finished off his futuristic looks, whether it was a pair of killer pumps with heels shaped as wings or a stunning chain head pieces that fell over models’ faces like a metallic waterfall. Judging from the rapturous applause at the end of the show, it seems Jayet’s AW12 collection will provide him with even more cult followers.

Photos taken with Olympus PEN E-PM1 – for more information see here

Phoebe English at London Fashion Week AW 12 // Pops of Pink

Who: Phoebe English

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Friday 17th February, 6.30pm

Who: Susie Bubble, Elle UK and the Style and Then Some team

Following hot on the heels of the One’s To Watch show, VFS alumnus Phoebe English staged her first solo offering at the Freemason’s Hall. Against a  soundtrack by Gabriel Bruce, we saw models emerge on the catwalk in laser cut ra-ra skirts with leather panelling, as well as sporty dresses with ruched waistlines and zig-zagging back straps.

With the lyric ‘I’ve got this feeling that we’re dead’ playing languorously (and on loop), as well as clothes showcased in a palette that was exclusively black and grey – things were looking pretty dreary. The name of the collection – ‘Sleep Paralysis’ – added to this moribund atmosphere. Almost anticipating this, however, English suddenly swerved into a sorbet pink colour scheme and reinvigorated her separates. Highlights included a picked cotton dress, with hidden pleated detailing on the back hem as well as the (previously mentioned) sporty dresses, but this time with a dense wool felt overlay on the skirt. The jump in to sorbet shades added a fresh point of contrast and I can see why English deserves her solo spot on  the VFS schedule.

Photos taken with Olympus PEN E-PM1 – for more information see here 

Ones to Watch @ Vauxhall Fashion Scout AW 12 // Bright Young Things

Who: One’s to Watch @ Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Friday 17th February, 4.30pm

Who: Susie Lau, the blogger behind Style Bubble

You could tell this was one of VFS’s most popular shows of the season, what with the half-hour delay and unusually busy crowd waiting in the foyer of the Freemason’s Hall. I counted over a dozen blue-rinse chignons and six trays of complimentary SNOG frozen yoghurt pass me before we were ushered into the catwalk space.

Stomachs and tempers soothed, this year’s OTW show opened with the work of Koreon-born Heohwan Simulton, whose collection echoed the designer’s background in menswear design. On offer this season, we saw cropped scoop-necked jackets with leather panelling, ankle-grazing tailored trousers and tangerine silk shifts (well it is THE colour of the year, apparently). But what started as a beatnik influenced collection – thanks to a remarkable number of plain black polo necks featured – slowly turned into the abstract. There was a hint of black velour on separates and a smattering of multicolored perspex tassels on shift dresses. It wasn’t unwearable, just an unexpected turn and one I’m sure could provide a nice shot of color in our otherwise dreary autumn wardrobes.

Next up was Myrza de Muynck and my second favourite of the lot. With her trademark buoyancy, the collection was a youthful, sporty and a real visual delight. Yes, a lot of what we’re seeing on the high street is saturated with the ubiquitous pastel trend, but Muynck modernised the candy palette using sporty materials and some interesting black paintbrush detailing.

Favourites of the show included padded mint trousers, exaggerated knit tank dresses – which reminded me a bit of the House of Holland AW11 collection – and a nice sky blue jumpsuit. Perhaps some critics would have found it a bit saccharine for their liking but I’ve always had a sweet tooth.

Anne Sofie Madsen went next and the contrast between this and Muynck’s collection couldn’t be more marked. As the first model walked down the catwalk in a leather dress with a Navaho-inspired skirt, I thought the collection was heading towards the Americas. Text-book error. If I had done my homework thoroughly, I would have known that Madsen’s aesthetic silently echoes her Scandanavian roots.

What followed was a series of latticed leather dresses, cocktail dresses embellished with delicate gold and silver chains and a healthy selection of chiffon blouses – softened by the occasional bit of floral rope arrangement. I know. It sounds bonkers and, quite frankly, at points it was. I didn’t know if I was watching a Gareth Pugh in-the-making, a master couturier in-the-making or someone who didn’t trust her talent enough (and it was there, in shed loads) to distill the collection further before showing.

The final hurrah came courtesy of fourth and final designer Nova Chiu. Having had previous stints at Matthew Williamson and Richard Nicoll, you can see where Chiu has developed her knack for using eye-popping color and sumptuous fabrics. She also uses digital printing techniques, which is probably how she achieved such a masterly mash-up of Asian, American and Oriental prints, seen on her multilayered dresses or structural jackets.

The whole thing was like watching the lovechild (or children, whatever) of the East. She also nailed it down to every detail. We saw Yeti-styled ear muffs, blouses that used protruding origami pleats and even some tassled earrings that looked like they same straight out of a Moroccan silk souk. Definitely my favourite from this year’s OTW collective.

Photos taken with Olympus Pen E-PM1 – see here for further details

Caroline Charles at London Fashion Week AW12 // A British Nostalgia

What? Caroline Charles

Where? The Caroline Charles studio, Brompton Road

When? Friday 17th February, 10am

Who? Voguettes, Telegraph Fashion Team, the cream of the King’s Road

Sitting in Caroline Charles’ Brompton Road studio, who’d have known that the mayhem of London Fashion Week had already begun? Greeted with a glass of bubbly and listening to the warm refrains of Ella Fitzgerald, we all got cosy in one of those rare salon presentations and were treated to Charles’ take on heritage wear, infused with a British wartime nostalgia.

As one of the original designers to back British Fashion Week over forty years ago, Charles’ is one of biggest proponents of classic British design principles. This season’s designs had a classic, wearable feel, featuring low-key skirt suits and crepe dresses covered with claret coloured velvet jackets. A decidedly feminine collection, this season’s featured all the classic moss and berry autumn tones, but refigured in sumptuous silks, satins and velvets.  I also spotted some rather snazzy accessories and jewellery (feathered tiara anyone?) designed by the Bijoux Heart.

Heritage may be a bit of a safe bet when it comes to autumn winter collections but it wasn’t all tweed and tartan. Charles re-spun the Bloomsbury aesthetic with touches of jewel embellishment on sleeves and collars, as well as a healthy dose of leopard print and silver lame in the mix - giving the uber-glam offerings a more youthful edge. All in all, a thoroughly polished start to the season indeed.

Check out the rest of Style & Then Some’s LFW coverage here.

Photos taken with Olympus PEN E-PM1 – for more information see here