You have our permission to get absolutely waisted this Christmas – here’s how

If you actually have a waistline, it’s pretty important for your dress (or coat or shirt) to have one too. Designers sometimes forget this but luckily, the Autumn Winter 12/13 shows included plenty of beautifully feminine silhouettes, without going overboard into power dressing meets dominatrix territory.

It starts with a coat, like this Virgin Wool Tailored Top Coat in Bright Chestnut by Burberry (shown here with a separate fur collar and bow belt). The nipped in waist, big buttons and ruched pockets give the appearance of elegant curves.

Dior Ready To Wear combined one of my favourite hues – mauve – with one of my favourite patterns – houndstooth – on a structured stretch wool satin jacket. A surprise grey beanie hat and silk satin organza skirt softened and lightened the jacket’s hard lines.

Almost every look at Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti AW12 was cinched in with an embellished belt or fitted band of some kind – making even outfits with knee length hemlines, collared necklines and capped sleeves look effortlessly sexy.

And in amongst the voluminous carefree dresses at Chloe, there was this silk twill jumpsuit with a billowing bottom half but a tidy band beneath the bow detail sparing the model’s blushes. Show-stopping.

Leather: the new wardrobe staple

Leather has become a wardrobe staple, lending itself to a multitude of seasonal outfits.  No longer just an accessory or associated with the dominatrix-look of previous seasons; leather has become the main event.

Endlessly versatile, leather befits work wardrobes and cocktail-hour alike.  Concurrent with the equestrian and military trend, the look is sharp and tough yet wearable and sleek.

Although a massive trend, leather garments can be quite expensive.  Burberry, The Row and Joseph all have stunning autumnal pieces, but some price-tags require uploading a kidney onto eBay to raise sufficient funds.  Others may have ethical reasons for not wanting to wear leather or perhaps oppose auctioning off internal organs.  Below, I’ve found some high-street substitutes which avoid plasticky finishes or any Ann Summers ‘pleather’ connotations.

Keep it classy with these leather alternatives:

Warehouse Coated Jeggings £42 – a nod to the leather trend, these have a matte, waxy finish which keeps the silhouette streamlined but not shimmery or shiny:

H&M Imitation Leather Mini Skirt £19.99 – this skirt has a grainy appearance and rich colour which looks amazing with pastel knits and ankle boots.  To an untrained eye, it may even pass for the real thing:

Burberry Brit Coated Denim Pencil Skirt £195 – a classic wardrobe staple with a fashion-forward twist.  Great for work and weekends:

Zara Wax Coated Denim Pants £35.99 – these petrol jeans are a worthy alternative to the standard black-skinny and have a flattering textured, slight-cropped finish:

French Connection Faux Leather Biker Jacket, £97:

Below are a handful of brands who support ethical fashion and use recycled leather or leather alternatives:

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Hot new designer alert // BasharatyanV at London Fashion Week AW12

In a sea of digitally printed dresses – lovely on the eye as they often are – sometimes you’re looking for a bit of texture, embellishment or just something a bit more exotic at London Fashion Week. So it’s a breath of fresh air when all three are handed to you on a plate. And by plate we mean a stunning, statuesque model like this one. 

Russian designer Veronica Basharatyan mixed up traditional and modern influences not to mention delicate, sheer blouses with densely knitted skirts and heavy coats for her AW12 collection ‘Balkaria’, shown at Felicities Presents this season.

Both the model and the designer (below) pulled off the tricky layered, transparent blouses plus the Basharatyan model had statement shoulders to contend with too. So maybe not all practical but the clothes certainly looked beautiful and supremely well made.

For news and to buy online, visit the BasharatyanV website. You can buy last season BasharatyanV at Boutique 123 on Bethnal Green road, London and Veronica is also showing her designs in Paris, Milan and during Fashion Week Russia.

Images credit: Samantha Meachin

Hot new designer alert // Tramp in Disguise at London Fashion Week AW12

One of our favourite finds of this Fashion Week was Tramp in Disguise, Sini Moilanen’s beautiful label that was shown as part of the Felicities Presents showcase in Somerset House’s Portico Rooms.

Making up the AW/12 collection are jewel coloured silk-mix dresses, jumpsuits and separates and a heavy dose of cosy-looking chunky knitwear which we can’t wait to see styled together. Inspired by the Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico, Finnish-born and RCA-taught Moilanen gave the collection the title ‘Lady of the Dead’ – but don’t worry there’s not a goth accessory or emo chain look in sight.

Moilanen designed the prints herself, based on the decorated skulls and embellishment of the lively Mexican ritual, but by choosing demure necklines and shapes makes them sophisticated and urban for AW/12. This is only her fourth appearance at London Fashion Week but for a designer who’s already stocked in trendy fashion pit-stop Beyond the Valley, it looks like we caught up with the label at just the right time.

For more info, head to trampindisguise.com. If you want to throw your cash at these designs, Tramp in Disguise womenswear is on sale online at Not Just a Label – prices start at £180.

Image credit: Samantha Meachin

Raeffaele Ascione at London Fashion Week AW12 // Goths will be goths

What: Raeffaele Ascione AW12 at London Fashion Week

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemason’s Hall

When: Sunday 19th September 6pm – 8pm

Images credit: Samantha Meachin.

Christopher Raeburn at London Fashion Week AW12 // The Big Freeze

What? Christopher Raeburn Presentation ‘Freeze’ AW12

Where? The portico Rooms (Somerset House)

When? Saturday 18th February 2012 4:20pm

Who? Some amazing inflatable critters (see photo!)

After a mad dash from Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Freemasons’ Hall yesterday afternoon, in the pouring rain, and whilst tottering along in wildly inappropriate wedges (hey, if you can’t dress up in LFW when can you?) over to Somerset House, I arrived at the Christopher Raeburn Presentation looking somewhat bedraggled.  But a last minute ticket opportunity was not going to be wasted, come rain or shine!  And boy, am I glad I managed to get my sopping wet socks through the door to experience Raeburn’s AW12 presentation, appropriately entitled ‘Freeze’.

The presentation itself was a very slick and simple affair, with limited decoration except for the giant inflatable see-through critters taking residence in the corners of the room (my inner child was going insane).  And all this worked wonders as it let the immaculate and detail-driven collection speak volumes for itself.

With Raeburn’s signature style never venturing far from a military feel, the AW12 line revealed a collection which married exceptional function and protection from the elements with sublime style.  Gilets, duffel coats and bomber jackets took centre stage, in a variety of shades from navy blues and charcoal greys to surprising splashes of sunshine yellow and blancmange pink; somewhat of a change of pace for Raeburn compared to previous seasons – no wonder as he has dubbed ‘Freeze’ his most feminine collection to date.

Already a NEWGEN Women’s and British Fashion Award winner, and with a new accessories line launching for AW12 (again, no skimping on utility and functionality here) there cannot be anyway but up for Raeburn.  Well, if you have Philip Green’s backing you can’t be going wrong.

Dans La Vie at London Fashion Week AW12 // J Pop

What: Dans La Vie

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout

When: Saturday 18th September 1pm

The bass was heavy and the coats were shiny at Dans La Vie this season. After showing us plasticky florals for Spring/Summer we got a mixture of 60s pop art and Japanese high priest references in the same 50s fitted dress and trench coat shapes we’re familiar with.

The outerwear had fun touches like leopard print fur or grey knitwear collars but to be honest it didn’t need it. Dans La Vie showed every crazy coat you could ever imagine wearing – from patent snakeskin to hoods with a zip coming down over the model’s head.

Tulle and tutu’s burst out from beneath a few biker jackets plus the relaxed sportswear brought the extravaganza down a notch. We also got some fun headwear in the form of what looked like a bright blue egg bursting and a circular purple and orange piece.

The highlights of the show for us were actually the round sunglasses (especially the blue ones that opened the show) and the pink highlights in some of the blonde haired models. It doesn’t always have to be the clothes you fall in love with.

Image and Video credit: Samantha Meachin.

Check out the rest of Style & Then Some’s LFW coverage here.

Mattijs at London Fashion Week AW12 // Who said C3PO wasn’t a style icon?

What? Mattijs

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout

When? Saturday 18th February 2012 11:15am

Who? Our friend (blogger) Jamie London Boy

Who’d ever though C3PO would be in Vogue?  Mattijs’ AW12-13 collection, aptly entitled ‘Starburst’ to reflect the heavily Sci-fi themed show, paid homage and drew inspiration from some unlikely characters… from a Galaxy far, far away no less. C3PO, R2D2, Princess Leia and Atreyu from the ‘Never Ending Story’ formed the basis of the collection.  Unfortunately, however, no Harrison Ford lookalikes were in attendance.

Despite my reservations pre-show (having read the press release, and being a life-long Star Wars Hater) I have to admit the colour palette laid down on the runway was near perfect, and as anyone knows, the best way to get me to change my mind is to distract me with something gold and shiny.  Thus, an array of gorgeous lame golds and tough jet black leather, teamed with splashes of Tangerine Tango orange (we TOLD you this would happen) bought a smile to my face.  I’m sure Chewy would have agreed.  This quickly transcended in to a wash of oceanic blues and mint to seaweed green hues, as if the collection was reenacting some lost Star Wars episode in which the Rebel Alliance did battle with the fallen city of Atlantis (I can’t be sure, but I think I spied some gold shell bead work going on).

Accessories also played a major part in the theme of the show, with metallic chokers and sci-fi styled cuffs adorning the models, finishing off the look with their ‘don’t mess with the Croydon facelift’ hair dos.  However, I would suggest sticking to gold for this, as I spied a bronze choker that was very reminiscent of the copper arthritis bangles you get down the chemist.

Of course, the collection wouldn’t be a Mattijs collection if it wasn’t peppered with pleating.  Incredible palazzo pants and midi length dresses glided down the runway, reaffirming pleats are every girl’s best friend, as previously mentioned by our Sophie Caldecott here.  Overall, the Mattijs AW12 collection travelled through the downright wearable, through to the self-styled Haute Couture, something the designer is keen to reveal in his press release.  However, with a few safety pins and fastenings on display which clearly shouldn’t have been, it may be a season or two yet before the label can truly play with the Haute Couture big boys.

Vodafone is the new sponsor of London Fashion Week – take that Orange Wednesdays

News just in: The British Fashion Council has confirmed the dates for London Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2012 as 17-21 February (for womenswear) and 22 February for Menswear Day. Registration for press, bloggers and industry is now open – with the show schedule set for a December announcement – and finally, Canon has been outed as the principal sponsor for the event with Vodafone taking its place for the next seven seasons.

What does this mean, apart from a new logo round our necks on our LFW passes? Well Vodafone customers (me, included) will be able to win tickets to every single show that takes place in the BFC Showspace, centre stage in Somerset House as part of Vodafone VIP – which has made a lot of promises so far but not really delivered.

Vodafone are also promising the competition winners an “exclusive viewing platform” to make sure they get a good view of the catwalk (none of this standing two rows back that we at S&TS would know nothing about of course) and a spot in a VIP lounge. A teensy bit more glamorous than wedging yourself into a packed Odeon once a week.