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The Chap magazine, Savile Row, Abercrombie & Fitch, fine tailoring

Pardon the horrible pun, I couldn’t resist. Given my recent musings on the Abercrombie/Hollister brand, I found the news that The Chap magazine is launching a petition to stop plans for another Abercrombie & Fitch shop to be opened on the hallowed ground of Savile Row rather amusing. I imagine they were rather taken aback to discover they were considered to be below the standard for this exclusive area of London, given how keen they are to cultivate a sense of exclusivity to their brand. They did, after all, recently pay cast members of Jersey Shore (the American equivalent of Geordie Shore) not to wear their clothes onscreen.

The Chap magazine has a point, though. Savile Row is one of the few remaining bastions of good old-fashioned fine tailoring skill, and its bespoke suits have been hailed as the best in the world for over 200 years. With big brands like Abercrombie inching onto the scene, these traditions are under threat.

Savile Row by Ndecam on Flickr

The petition will be formally presented to Westminster council, and has over 500 signatures already. David Coleridge of H. Huntsman & Sons said, “The arrival of Abercrombie & Fitch at the end of Savile row would dramatically change not just the tone but the safety of the street”.

In a letter to Boris Johnson, The Chap editor Gustav Temple, said: “Once that store is allowed to exist, there is no reason why other large chain stores, also peddling overpriced casual wear and T-shirts bearing slogans, will begin to fill up the other buildings.” It seems he’s right – according to Drapers, there has been a similar furore over the hipster brand The Kooples, who also want to open a shop on the street.

“This isn’t simply about resisting the global spread of chain stores, which market forces have made inevitable. It’s about preserving a little corner of Englishness in London. It’s only one street, for goodness’ sake, and why shouldn’t it remain exclusively dedicated to bespoke tailoring?” asks Temple.

If you want to help save Savile Row, you can sign the petition here.

Ok, so I’m no Alan Sugar, and I’m not even going to pretend like I know what those mythical ‘city folk’ do day in day out, but for some reason this week I have been absolutely craving to know all about the business of fashion.  And by this I mean the down right nitty-gritty.  Not the models, not the clothes so to speak.  But how these companies handle their cold, hard cash.  

 

I think this fascination has stemmed from finally picking up a copy of Drapers Record that is usually tossed around my office still in its packaging.  And this appears to have led to me not being frightened to look a the ‘grown-ups’ section in the back of the evening standard a.k.a the finance pages…shudder.  But lo and behold, it looks like there is a valid reason why they put those extra pages in.

This week has seen Mulberry, for one, hit a 358% profit rise.  358%!!!  And it’s apparently all down to two names; ‘Alexa’ and ‘Bayswater’, and the fact that even though we are still technically in a recession, it looks like we still want to spend, but just on established and well crafted goods.  And apparently Chung’s name isn’t putting anyone off…who’d have thought it.  Not only this, but Prada are tipped to float on the Hong Kong market (ok here is where my knowledge of technical terms gets hazy…but hey its only my third day swotting up) as well as expanding in Asia with up to 80 new outlets!!!  And if that isn’t enough, Ted Baker apparently scored points worldwide, with a 15% increase in sales in the past few months.  

So, turns out I may yet get the knack for this biz, and maybe I will become the Alanah Sugar of the fashion world. ..maybe.

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