Osman at London Fashion Week AW12 // Taste of the Orient

Who: Osman

Where: BFC Courtyard Showspace, Somerset House

When: Monday 20th February at 7pm

Who: Poppy Delevigne, Theresa May, Harold Tillman, Bip Ling

No that isn’t a typo. The Frow at Osman on Monday night took a surprising political turn, as Home Secretary Theresa May took up her seat alongside BFC Chairman Harold Tillman and star blogger Liberty London Girl. And why not? A favourite of SamCam and Sarah Brown, Osman’s collections have always been a big draw for the fashion-savvy politicos ensconced on Downing Street.

With a set that included a vibrant printed carpet catwalk, this season Osman treated us to a journey through the orient. White shirts were accompanied by ornate brocade collars and matching booties; cape backed blouses and skinny fit trousers were constructed out of richly embroidered chinoiserie fabrics. Even leather skirts, with Osman’s trademark U-shaped hems, were given a blood red lining – instantly lifting the monochromatic looks.

Moving on from a colour scheme of reds, white and black, Osman’s later looks incorporated a moss-green hue – set off brilliantly by bright blue pom-pom and gold accessories by Erickson Beamon. Yes, all the Osman design signatures were there- that elegant curve of the waistline, the neat silhouette of a trouser suit -but refigured in exotic prints and fabrics, here was a collection perfect for brightening up those dark winter days.

Images and video credit: Samantha Meachin

Holly Fulton at London Fashion Week AW12 // Hose me down

What: Holly Fulton AW12 at London Fashion Week

Where: BFC Showspace, Somerset House

When: Tuesday 21st February 2012, 12pm

Who: Tolula Adeyemi (in Holly Fulton, of course) and a very squished FROW full of editors

Urban gardeners, drop the herb box and listen up – there’s a new green-fingered style icon in town and it’s the AW12 Holly Fulton woman. At the Holly Fulton show this afternoon in a jampacked BFS Showspace, we got our somewhat expected art deco leanings together with brightly coloured rainbow hues of pink and turquoise on ladylike silhouettes.

All this was wrapped into beautifully styled packages of Christian Louboutin heels, Cutler and Gross glasses and messy, sometimes bejewelled buns. And we were told – via press release – that the look was straight out of a saucy Lady Chatterley-style getting-it-on-with-the-gardener scene.

As it always is with fashion, the botanical garden prints and Peter Max-inspired pop art motifs were the most sophisticated imagining of a sexed up nature-loving Lady of the Manor we could ever hope to see. Which doesn’t mean the collection wasn’t fun – there was more than a hint of Versace in the bold pink and black looks (though we preferred the turquoise section). Crossed necklines, cropped jackets and polo necked dresses kept all the frivolity in check.

Fitted skirts were cut at the hems providing another hint of naughtiness and statement earrings and accessorised short sleeves  gave the otherwise stiff outfits some girlish movement. I wasn’t a fan of the swinging, furry bags but otherwise the glasses and jewellery were grown up touches to some pretty loud looks.

The finale look – with a beautiful armoured-style cropped vest and long, skintight skirt – was a wonderful surprise after lots of print and not much texture. I’m sure Ladies looking to pounce on their outdoor staff would stumble just like the final Holly Fulton model did as she took on the bright lights of the BFC catwalk. They’d probably have more chance of being caught by a strong, young man too.

Photos taken with Olympus PEN E-PM1 – for more information see here

Michael van der Ham at London Fashion Week AW12 // Collage for Grown Ups

Who: Michael van der Ham

Where: Topshop Venue at Old Billingsgate Market

When: Monday 20th February at 12pm

Who: Henry Conway, Lulu Kennedy, Susie Bubble, Tolula Adeyemi

Michael van der Ham is one of those designers who will always have a unique design signature. With his magpie-like eye for beautiful textiles and prints, his collections have always maintained that collage, arty aesthetic that has made him a favourite of avant-garde bloggers, Fashion East acolytes and London’s bright young things.

Personally, I was always fascinated by how beautifully he could incorporate patches and drape sashes across his dresses so that the whole thing moved as one. His technical skill is just mind blowing. I must have had sashes on the brain as I dreamt about his AW12 show last night as a spectacle that mimicked The Dance of the Seven Veils from Wilde’s Salome. Okay, so maybe three days of non-stop shows meant I was verging on delirium.

And also way off what he showed us today at the Old Billingsgate Market. Models were made up with Veronica Lake-esque curls as they glided up and down the runway in glamorous looks worthy of the screen goddess. Metallic details were present everywhere, from the jacquard panelling on bodice’s to hems with a delicate metallic floral appliqué – set against apple green separates.

But from the knitted, structured pieces that dominate daywear, we moved towards the night, with sequin-encrusted tops paired with shimmering mini-skirts, satin cigarette pants. The silhouette became more fluid, more nonchalent as MVDH upped the ante for his finale – a series of dainty organza concoctions, diffused floral prints across blouses and – yes- the odd sash here and there. In these lux fabrics and cuts, MVDH’s latest collection shows that grown-ups can do collage too.

Bernard Chandran at London Fashion Week AW12 // Midnight Rebel

Who: Bernard Chandran

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Saturday 18th February, 5.30pm

Who: Pandemonia, Keisha Buchanan

Judging from his latest collection, it’s little wonder that Bernard Chandran has become a favourite of Lady Gaga. As the lights went up to an infectious drum and bass soundtrack, we saw a host of madcap evening looks come down the runway complete with retro barrel role hairstyles.

From funnel necked cocktail dresses, encrusted with Swarovski crystals around the neck, to wetlook black silk trousers and navy satin gowns, here was a collection that was eccentric yet elegant.

As his palette traveled from black and navy to caramel and toffee hues, we also saw Chandran experiment with Autumn staple pieces. Highlights for me included a woman’s tuxedo jacket, with exaggerated lapels and sequin detailing, as well as another black evening gown embellished with multicoloured crystals – something that had a touch of the orient to it.

The range of textiles on offer here also piqued my curiosity and showed off Chandran’s skill: whether it was mixing a delicate lace overlay on a monochrome number with a leather collar, or a fuzzy black knitted dress muddled with metallic threads. The whole collection felt young, fresh and futuristic – a great credit to Chandran’s talent.

Florian Jayet at Vauxhall Fashion Scout AW12 // An Egyptian Future

Who: Florian Jayet AW12 at LFW

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Saturday 18th February, 12.30pm

Florian Jayet may be a Frenchman by birth but his latest Autumn Winter collection took it’s cue from tribal marking and ancient Egyptian culture. Models opened the show at the Freemason’s Hall sporting leather headpieces, threaded with delicate silver chains while wearing a selection of tribal printed body-con dresses and leggings, in a palette of shimmering greys, limes and midnight blues.

But though the prints may have been a nod to the past, the textiles and cuts at Jayet’s show were a thing of the future. Some looks began incorporating reptile-like scales on sleeves and hems, as others flirted with exaggerated waist pleating and heavily structured waistcoats. Highlights included a series of midnight blue satin separates – from ruched skinny fit trousers to a peplum shaped dress, accessorised with a necklace that looked like it was made of blonde  human hair.

Elsewhere accessories finished off his futuristic looks, whether it was a pair of killer pumps with heels shaped as wings or a stunning chain head pieces that fell over models’ faces like a metallic waterfall. Judging from the rapturous applause at the end of the show, it seems Jayet’s AW12 collection will provide him with even more cult followers.

Photos taken with Olympus PEN E-PM1 – for more information see here

Eudon Choi at London Fashion Week AW12 // Here’s Looking At You Kid

What: Eudon Choi AW12 at LFW

Where: Portico Rooms, Somerset House

When: Saturday 18th February, 6.45pm

Who: Susie Bubble and Elle staffers waiting to go into the 7.30pm Eudon Choi show

Walking into the Terra Nova (new land) that designer Eudon Choi had created for himself in the Somerset House Portico Rooms, we were greeted by darkness and a projection of nature footage in moody monochrome. Not exactly your everyday salon show.

Eudon Choi for AW12 was refreshingly and obviously autumn and winterwear with fur lined hoods, a muted and sophsticated colour palette (bar a pop of blue) and the least sexy pair of elbow-length gloves I have ever seen. What looked like swim caps – in black, white or doused in sequins – adorned some of the models’ heads and it’s no surprise, what with Choi’s menswear background, that the focus was on beautiful tailoring. His womenswear training at the RCA hasn’t been forgotten though. The stand out looks were a two tone, textured coat that looked straight out of Proenza Schouler and an asymmetrical, fitted top paired with a demure knee-length (but sexily slit) skirt. Both are strong and feminine without screaming ‘alpha female’.

Choi’s team staged a wonderful “fashion moment” (above) that gently unfolded look by look. The models arranged themselves on the white chairs and stools, grabbing a pair of binoculars each and staring into the crowd – who, as any seasoned LFW goers will know, were hell bent on papping the womenswear to within a thread of its life. The ensemble reminded me of a female photographer who took snaps of any man that wolf-whistled or heckled at her in the street. And even though it’s more likely Choi had his Terra Nova theme in mind, I’m willing to agree to disagree with the Korean wunderkid.

Images credit: Samantha Meachin, Katie Wright

Ones to Watch @ Vauxhall Fashion Scout AW 12 // Bright Young Things

Who: One’s to Watch @ Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Friday 17th February, 4.30pm

Who: Susie Lau, the blogger behind Style Bubble

You could tell this was one of VFS’s most popular shows of the season, what with the half-hour delay and unusually busy crowd waiting in the foyer of the Freemason’s Hall. I counted over a dozen blue-rinse chignons and six trays of complimentary SNOG frozen yoghurt pass me before we were ushered into the catwalk space.

Stomachs and tempers soothed, this year’s OTW show opened with the work of Koreon-born Heohwan Simulton, whose collection echoed the designer’s background in menswear design. On offer this season, we saw cropped scoop-necked jackets with leather panelling, ankle-grazing tailored trousers and tangerine silk shifts (well it is THE colour of the year, apparently). But what started as a beatnik influenced collection – thanks to a remarkable number of plain black polo necks featured – slowly turned into the abstract. There was a hint of black velour on separates and a smattering of multicolored perspex tassels on shift dresses. It wasn’t unwearable, just an unexpected turn and one I’m sure could provide a nice shot of color in our otherwise dreary autumn wardrobes.

Next up was Myrza de Muynck and my second favourite of the lot. With her trademark buoyancy, the collection was a youthful, sporty and a real visual delight. Yes, a lot of what we’re seeing on the high street is saturated with the ubiquitous pastel trend, but Muynck modernised the candy palette using sporty materials and some interesting black paintbrush detailing.

Favourites of the show included padded mint trousers, exaggerated knit tank dresses – which reminded me a bit of the House of Holland AW11 collection – and a nice sky blue jumpsuit. Perhaps some critics would have found it a bit saccharine for their liking but I’ve always had a sweet tooth.

Anne Sofie Madsen went next and the contrast between this and Muynck’s collection couldn’t be more marked. As the first model walked down the catwalk in a leather dress with a Navaho-inspired skirt, I thought the collection was heading towards the Americas. Text-book error. If I had done my homework thoroughly, I would have known that Madsen’s aesthetic silently echoes her Scandanavian roots.

What followed was a series of latticed leather dresses, cocktail dresses embellished with delicate gold and silver chains and a healthy selection of chiffon blouses – softened by the occasional bit of floral rope arrangement. I know. It sounds bonkers and, quite frankly, at points it was. I didn’t know if I was watching a Gareth Pugh in-the-making, a master couturier in-the-making or someone who didn’t trust her talent enough (and it was there, in shed loads) to distill the collection further before showing.

The final hurrah came courtesy of fourth and final designer Nova Chiu. Having had previous stints at Matthew Williamson and Richard Nicoll, you can see where Chiu has developed her knack for using eye-popping color and sumptuous fabrics. She also uses digital printing techniques, which is probably how she achieved such a masterly mash-up of Asian, American and Oriental prints, seen on her multilayered dresses or structural jackets.

The whole thing was like watching the lovechild (or children, whatever) of the East. She also nailed it down to every detail. We saw Yeti-styled ear muffs, blouses that used protruding origami pleats and even some tassled earrings that looked like they same straight out of a Moroccan silk souk. Definitely my favourite from this year’s OTW collective.

Photos taken with Olympus Pen E-PM1 – see here for further details

Francesca Marotta at London Fashion Week A/W 12 // If it’s not Baroque

What? Francesca Marotta

Where? My Beautiful Fashion, Goldsmiths’ Hall

When? Friday, February 17th 2012 at 2pm

The richly painted ceilings, gold pillars, sweeping staircases, and stained glass windows of Goldsmith’s Hall offset Marotta’s dark Baroque themed show beautifully.

Models swathed in black lace embroidered with sparkling beads showcased dramatically billowing skirts. There was something religious about the black lace head coverings, and it would not have looked out of place if the models had been carrying rosaries.

As the show progressed, however, the Baroque influence gave way to a more modern look, with neon perspex jewellery, dark-toned tweed miniskirts that sat on the waist with loose, unstructured jackets thrown over the top.

The real show-stealer was a dramatic bright red lace cape which went for full on dramatic effect, the long train draping down the runway (I’m really sad that the picture, above, didn’t come out very well because it was pretty cool). In fact, capes were a big deal throughout the whole show; I wanted the little black number with red lining. Very sexy Scottish widow.

There was a large dose of romance, drama, and mystery on the catwalk yesterday afternoon.

Photos taken with the Olympus E-PM1

Fam Irvoll at London Fashion Week A/W 12 // Monster Mash

What? Fam Irvoll

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons’ Hall

When? Friday 17th February 2012 12:30pm

Oversized sweaters, leggins, baby doll dresses, and bright neon monster prints: fun is the word that really defines Fam Irvoll’s whimsical Autumn/Winter collection. Girly and tomboy aesthetics clashed with each other and fought for dominance in the somewhat unlikely pairing of trainers and ballerina tulle.

There was more than a dash of 80s disco about the zaney colour combinations. (Except that instead of perms, slick pony tails and quiffs were the order of the day.) Yellow eye shadow and turquoise lipstick ensured that even the more conservative outfits had an element of monsterly-weirdness to them.

Peter pan collars and big cuddly-toy style monsters worn as backpacks and replacements for bowties, as well as Irvoll’s childlike monster prints, were full of child-like energy. It was entirely appropriate then, when some very bouncy children joined the catwalk in bright turquoise onesies and sportswear towards the end of the show. Let the wild rumpus begin…

Georgia Hardinge at London Fashion Week AW12 // Whatever will be, will be (pretty)

What? Georgia Hardinge

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout

When? Friday 17th February 2012 7.30pm

Who? Kate Nash, Amelia Gregory

Check out the rest of Style & Then Some’s LFW coverage here.

Georgia Hardinge was our last show of the day on Friday but it was so worth waiting for. We wouldn’t lie about these things either as we’d be waiting over half an hour for the privilege. But the opening bars of Que Sera Sera set the scene – warm vocals fit for the opening looks of grown up mustard suedes and demure, beige lace up boots.

For AW12, Hardinge showed an interesting mix of blouses, pants and dresses in jewel tones – blues, plums – and printed bodycon jersey dresses with a hint of knitwear thrown in. Some very Miss Marple-esque wide-brimmed bowler hats completed the set-up.

Sometimes the justaposition worked particularly beautifully- as in the greyish-beige knitted jumper with attached snood which Hardinge  layered over a fitted ankle length white and purple dyed skirt. The skirt lengths made it feel lean and effortless and we were a big fan of the boxy pleated boleros in cream and plum.

Things got a bit sculptural around the hip zone for the last AW12 look – this dress encased in a dress wasn’t exactly party wear. But it was a bold taste of what we are yet to see from this exciting British designer – plus she gets bonus Style and Then Some points for looking very chic in her own designs for the bow at the end.

Apologies for the shaky video footage – let’s just say Georgia Hardinge made us go weak at the knees by the time the finale rolled round.

 

Images and Video credit: Samantha Meachin