Antipodium didn’t come about in the usual way. The label wasn’t born straight out of Central Saint Martin’s or London College of Fashion, but rather started as a boutique/PR/wholesale agency before Creative Director Geoffrey J. Finch spotted a gap in the market and began creating Anitpodium’s own capsule collections. With Antipodium obviously knowing how other areas of the industry works, they gained a cult following and began showing at London Fashion Week in September 2006. With the likes of Alexa Chung, Beth Ditto, Pixie Geldof and Poppy Delevigne all praising the brand, it’s no wonder the success of this East End label is snowballing.
So what does Antipodium have in store for Chungy, Pixie and the rest of us then?
Well, a whole lot of multicoloured leathers and patent raincoat dresses apparently. The collection, entitled ‘Sex, Lies and CCTV’ was quite literally a rainbow affair. The appearance of white high-heeled stilettos at times did get my inner Essex girl cringing, but aside from the footwear the use of metallic leathers with contrasting fur collars and clashing contrasts of lime green hues with turquoise cardis for instance did wake one up after having to drag myself out of bed for an achingly hip 9AM show.
All good in the hood then?
Personally, I’m not the kind of girl who could pull off wide legged leather trousers (damn those whocan!) but many aspects of the collection did seem wearable and I can definitely picture Ms Chung donning the printed blouse front row and centre next season (pictured bellow).
Well, Sass & Bide is the conjoined efforts of two ridiculously blonde and beautiful Aussie ladies, Sarah-Jane Clarke (sass) & Heidi Middleton (bide).
What was their show like?
First and foremost, Katie and I were having a very jaded day on Friday. Having done the LFW hoopla many times over, you do start to forget why you are doing this. It can become extremely stressful, exhausting as well as emotionally and physically draining. Queuing, running from space to space, fighting for laptops in press lounges and basically having to listen to other people’s utter self indulgent drivel whilst waiting in the freezing cold for up to an hour, with no guarantee of entry (Felder Felder, here’s an idea – stop giving out so many tickets) can touch on the laborious side of things. FYI if you have any golden nuggets from overheard fashion shat (shit chat) use the hashtag #overheardatlfw – thank you Telegraph for peddling this! So I would just like to say personally to the ladies of Sass & bide, thank you for reminding us why we put ourselves through it.
So it was worth it then?
Definitely. The collection, entitled ‘Wintergate’, was an elegant and sophisticated affair, which above all managed to push the brand forward whilst remaining vastly wearable.
A wearable collection at Fashion Week? Is that a joke?
Fortunately it isn’t. Despite the majority of collections at fashion shows retaining very little that could ever hit the shop floor, Sass & Bide provided key looks which not only I wanted to wear, but ones I could actually see translating successfully from a 8ft tall, 7-stone model/avatar on to a variety of diverse body shapes. For instance, fitted chevron blazers, relaxed peplum tops (FYI, insider knowledge here, but the peplum is still going to be hanging around until SS14 so get embracing), and drop-waisted dresses all work wonders, and if not even look better, on ‘non-models’.
Did you see any celebs?
At first glance it appeared the ‘shlebs’ had crashed out from Fashion Week for an early night, much to my excitement. Don’t get me wrong, I do get relatively star struck depending on the person in question, but once you go through the notions of LFW a few times, the novelty of seeing Kate Nash, that one from the Noisettes and Diana Vickers FROW every season becomes rather boresome. So I was rather surprised I couldn’t spot my old pals anywhere in the crowd until outside on the steps of St. John’s Church we spotted the likes of Olivia Palermo, Caroline Flack and Pixie Lott milling around for the photographers.
Fashion month is upon us again but with new talent and high street stores signing up to show at London Fashion Week AW13, it’s trickier than ever to know which collections to look out for, the livestreams to bookmark and the names to remember.
We asked a few fashion industry pals and our own S&TS contributors for some expert advice in the run up to London Fashion Week which kicks off on February 15th 2013.
If I had a magic ticket that got me into any show I’d be heading to Tom Ford – he’s doing a full-sized show in London for the first time – Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou (snapped with me above) and the ever star-studded Burberry extravaganza.
Colin McDowell has been raving about Fyodor Golan so that’s another name on my watch list, along with Ashish (SS13 above) and Moschino Cheap and Chic because they’re both always dazzlingly fun and wearable.
In recent seasons, my favourite shows have been Michael van der Ham (AW12 above) so I am looking forward to seeing what they’re up to for AW13. Plus I’ve been to Spijkers and Spijkers for the past three seasons too so I’m looking forward to seeing how they’re progressing.
Olivia Wakefield, editorial assistant at Net-a-Porter @OlivesW
I can’t wait for Simone Rocha’s new collection. She is a genius – romantic with a tough edge. Christopher Kane (above) is also a showstopper too; I love the sinister element to his pieces.
Outside of LFW, I’m interested to see Hedi Slimane’s follow-up at Saint Laurent. His LA grunge aesthetic is great.
Having followed the development and evolution of both Christopher Raeburn’s menswear and womenswear collections (AW12 above) over the past few years, I’m really intrigued to see what AW13-14 will hold in store for the growing brand. With Victoria Beckham now a major fan, it’ll be all eyes on the NEWGEN designer at Fashion Week.
I witnessed Bora Aksu’s insanely dreamy, other-worldly SS13 show last season where Eastern European princesses dominated and flower crowns stole the show (not to mention the harem of celebrities who were sitting pretty FROW). We’ll see this amazing designer develop his vision for AW13-14.
Obviously I’m biased but I’m most looking forward to Burberry, we have some exciting things coming up next season. Working in sourcing means I’m already looking towards SS14 as we work so far ahead.
Other than Burberry I’ll be keeping an eye on Mulberry for the shapes and leather and Erdem for the prints.
Fashion Scout have put forward three designers Yeashin Lin, Patrick Li and Yulia Kondranina – it’s headed up by Hilary Alexander and she knows a thing or two about fashion!
Dee Acharya, features assistant at ES magazine @dee_acharya
First up, Simone Rocha because you always respect a designer who can pack the tent at Somerset House and prove her worth with a SS collection (above) that felt like it was almost exclusively in white.
I’m also looking forward to Sophia Webster’s presentation because I haven’t been this excited about an accessories designer since Charlotte Olympia’s debut and I like her tongue in cheek style. She’s already assisted Nicholas Kirkwood for a while so the girl knows how to make a cult shoe.
Another highlight will be Matthew Williamson’s show because I want to see how he’ll beat that magical show from last season. The dresses are always exquisite in their detail and flamboyant colours.
High street brands are closing the gap between couture and ‘over-the-counter’ labels as more and more high-street brands turn around ever slicker, covetable collections.
Whistles are showing at LFW for the first time, hosting an off-schedule event showcasing the brand’s AW13/14 limited edition premium range alongside core main-range pieces.
Whilst not brand new to LFW, this is the first seated event from the high street brand. Whistles will be joining the ranks of long-serving LFW favourite Topshop and mirroring River Island’s toe-dip into fashion week with the much-publicised Rihanna collection.
The brand is currently bucking the hard-up-high-street trend and opening a multi-floored flagship branch in Mayfair. The new store interior will epitomise the simple elegance associated with the Whistle’s signature whilst using innovative wireless payment technology to add a USP to the new store.
High street brands are becoming less incongruous at fashion week to the dismay of some purists but seen as inevitable by others. CEO Jane Shepherdson said the brand had been moving in the luxury direction for some time and LFW offers the ‘ideal platform’ to showcase the collection to the British and International fashion community .
Demi-modelling: ’the ludicrous poses adopted by fashionistas outside shows when they spot an approaching street-style snapper.’ Style Magazine.
These fashiony event-hoppers irritatingly describe their look using obscure adjectives and wilfully walk the streets looking full-on-crazy in the hope they’ll get noticed by a passing blogger.
Once upon a time a bit of crazy amidst a sea of coordinated outfits was seen as a little off-centre and unique. Now, the practice of sello-taping cuddly toys to your clothes or arriving in an outfit ,which can only be considered a bet, no longer constitutes distinctive style. The one-upmanship amongst these street-stylers has created an escalating competition whereby a lone quirky hat is no longer enough to get yourself noticed. More is now way (too much) more.
It’s a similar principle to the one employed on a first lunch date or somewhere you need to look ‘accidentally gorgeous.’ You make a subtle, extra effort, unnoticeable to an untrained eye but just a casual turn of the dial for maximum impact. Then you can convincingly act surprised or accept compliments (‘…oh, this old thing, I got ready in 5 minutes flat…’) knowing you look better than normal. However if you are ludicrously posing near an ideal backdrop/with good lighting/accessories poised, you look like a massive idiot. Worse still, is when someone does actually ask for a photo and the wannabe rolls their eyes in an ‘OMG this happens all the time….’ way and acts like their triple booked fashion schedule has been disrupted. Pur-lease.
Helen wrote a great piece after London Fashion Week, describing some of the fashion absurdity witnessed during the height of the street-style calendar. Yes, fashion is about breaking moulds, idealism and pushing boundaries. In everyday life it is also about finding staples you love, pulling together outfits from a random drawer and enjoying the process of finding clothes that suit you. It is most definitely not throwing yourself at a designer wardrobe (mixed with vintage pieces obvs), adding fiendish accessories and wacky jewellery for good measure and then loitering with a mass of other crazies trying to look ‘accidentally snappable.’
I’m going to initiate a backlash and start street-style snapping people wearing jeans and T-shirts, walking their dog in a lovely waterproof or perhaps a commuter with an especially well-made briefcase.
Ashish successfully blended his favourite tinselly sequins with undone, dishevelled style – continuing his love of championing the underdog and celebrating nonconformists.
Invoking tugs of nostalgia, the grey uniform, sparkly scrunchies and slouchy teenage struts were reminiscent of angst-riddled school days, cleverly interspersed with flashes of high-octane grown-up gowns in metallic hues.
Many outfits were backless, juxtaposing NHS glasses and messy hair – adding a bit of sex appeal to the adolescent, disproportionate shapes.
Outsized, boyish sweaters and draped designs were sprinkled with numeral or spotted detail, honouring the ‘math geek heroine’ which whom the show was inspired. A lot of garments featured cut-out designs or were emblazoned with archetypal anti-hero slogans.
The mismatched trouser legs and reverse drop hemlines (long at front, short at back) added to the individualistic randomness. Plain-Jane, washed-out make-up portrayed a lack of vanity or desire to preen and perfect, showing the Ashish girl ‘has her mind set on loftier pursuits.’
A fist in the air for non-girly girls and to toned down glitz; a sentiment proving sequins are not just for Christmas…
After so many seasons at London Fashion Week, you start to become pretty desensitized to it all. All the stylists laden with equal quantities of PR contacts and Mawi jewellery begin to blur together, and outfits usually only seen in children’s nightmares become the norm. Personally, I stopped trying this season. I ditched my 6-inch wedges and pleather skinnies in favour of flats – and not falling flat on my face on the cobbles of Somerset House. I also made sure I had pockets galore to stash emergency pens, tickets, passes, camera lenses and painkillers. I am actually considering a utility belt next season, in a completely un-ironic and totally practical way. I’m just scared I’ll kick off some new ridiculous Bob The Builder trend and get trolled by the trade unions. Someone even complimented me this week on the fact I hadn’t ‘dressed up’ and how it was totally ‘refreshing to see’. I am 98% positive this was said in an ironic way, but I’m still cashing in that compliment, you hear.
After trawling through about a zillion of our photographs from London Fashion Week, we decided to put a top ten rundown together highlighting the – shock horror – FUN we had and hilarious sights we saw, amidst all the seriousness and ridiculousness. So here it is, our attempt at injecting a little humour back into LFW. God knows it needs it.
1. We think we found our Prince
We couldn’t tell if this joker was an actual member of the royal family or had just popped to Burger King. We know K-Middy and co are usually Frow at Issa, but maybe he was just lost looking for Raffles? Either way, he definitely needed to get some air into his crown quick-smart. I think the only other guy spotted who topped our Prince Charming was the idiot in the ‘Free Shags’ t-shirt walking around Somerset House hand in hand with his GIRLFRIEND.
2. We found out why Burberry don’t just let anyone in
Major tip: if all you desires is to get papped by a street style photographer, one sure-fire way to succeed is to basically wear everything you own (but, in the words of Joey Tribbiani, you ‘better not do any lunges’). Wearing a dress with actual teddy bears as shoulder pads does not make you the height of fashion, it makes you look like you got lost on the way to your audition for Nightmare on Sesame Street. As the greats do say, there is a fine line between style and peacocking fashion.
3. We found an actual triple threat
In the immortal words of Andrew Stone, of Pineapple Dance Studios fame, these guys are a true triple threat. They WILL threaten you if you dare to question their choice in man-clutches. Oh, and they have also perfected the art of synchronized walking. Bravo, my friends, bravo.
4. We found the happiest man alive at Fashion Week
Contrary to popular belief, you are allowed to smile at fashion week, as proved by this cheeky chappy. I’m not even 100% convinced he was working, as I saw him grab his coat and dash out of Somerset house about 5 minutes after I took this photo. Maybe he had Bob Geldofesque tendencies and was attempting to feed the models. Or just really friggin’ loves his popcorn. Either way, he was the happiest guy we saw all weekend.
5. We found out we are potentially the only two people eating at Fashion Week
After we accosted said happiest man alive for his ‘corn, it appeared we were the only people who dared eat in public within a two mile radius. We know this is usually a maaaaajar faux pas, but after 10 hours on your feet the sight of a free bag of sweet and salty is enough to make anyone drool.
6. We found that Gangnam style
Watch out London, the phenomenon that is Gangnam Style has already infiltrated the walls of Somerset House and your wardrobe is next. Hell, we’re seriously considering a trip to Korean Fashion Week just to see if the models Gangnam all the way down the catwalks.
7. …and that Katie is a pro
Having already perfected the art of Gangnam, Katie gave us a lesson in riding the invisible horse in between shows. Perhaps we should have crashed a few shows and made our own Gangnam parody – but I’m pretty certain Henry Holland would have had us blacklisted for life if we’d dared.
8. We found the worst PR team ever
When you’re sitting in a meeting room, planning the publicity for your fashion show, and someone suggests you could cut a few corners and just chalk out directions on the pavement, you need to FIRE THEM. Honestly, what if it had rained?!
9. We found out a lot about the Freemasons
Whilst we were camped out at Freemasons Hall for all the Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows, our Katie got talking to a real life Freemason, and by all accounts got a 20 minute history lesson too. It turns out that Freemasons Hall is still the Global headquarters for all the Freemasons and not just a fashion show location twice a year. Go figure.
10. I hate to see you go, but I love to watch you leave!
Oh Fashion Week. We’ve had our highs and we’ve had our lows. It makes sense we only see each other every six months my darling, but can we still be frenemies? Until next time, air kisses sweetie! Now can someone direct me back to the real world please?
Known for his technical, understated designs and sophisticated themes, Eugene Lin stamped his signature style all over his debut solo catwalk collection, ‘The Judgement of Paris’ for Spring/Summer 2013.
Inspired by a Greek mythological tale recounting a contest between the three most beautiful goddesses of Olympos, each of whom tried to outdo each other to win favour with the Trojan mortal Paris. The collection flitted from sexy bodycon, cut-out designs to boyish safari looks contrasting ladylike slim-fit pencil skirts and shift dresses. With severe double wrap waists and super-tall skinny heels, the outfits were polished but not to be messed with.
The classic trench was deconstructed into dresses and tops with asymmetrical outlines and irregular storm flaps. Incongruously worn over swimwear or reinvented into fluid, draped hunting-style jackets for unmistakable urban authority.
The rust and mauve ethereal digital prints added depth to the uncomplicated silhouettes, sometimes overdosing on head-to-toe pattern. This season also saw the introduction of accessories, wearable jersey and lycra leggings, showcasing the comfort-luxe aesthetic which the label prides itself on.
Hair was kept sleek and sharp in no-fuss ponytails with bold eyebrows and just a flicker of tangerine eyeliner, keeping the look simple yet ultra-modern. The restrained cuts, wearable colours and tough-yet-tailored looks which will no doubt act as a solid foundation for future collections.
A growing favourite for many on the London Fashion Week schedule is the delectable Bora Aksu who this season proved his worth with a collection so beautiful and enchanting, the only thing that could distract from the sumptuousness of it all was Kelly Brook’s boobs front row.
While the show was set to a hauntingly dramatic soundtrack which I am pleased to say included my new favorite band ‘Daughter’, the collection itself was by all accounts inspired by Queen Victoria’s granddaughter, Marie. After a quick Wikipedia scan, Marie – who became the Queen of Romania, was known for her modernity and love of the arts, culture, and her precious botanical gardens. This would explain nicely why I felt I wanted to wrap myself up in Bora Aksu’s SS13 offerings and frolic around the meadows of Eastern Europe in the Summer time, pretending I am some sort of Russian runaway bride. With a crown on. You always need a crown on.
While the colour palette remained mostly ‘pastelised’, the flashes of purple throughout the collection reminded us of the regal status of Marie, while the abundance of silk organzas, lace shift dresses and hints of ruffled hems contrasted in such a brilliant way, it was as if the ‘Modern Queen’ had commissioned the collection herself. The stunning prints running throughout the collection also escalated in size to highlight Marie’s growing popularity, as well as her fondness of Romania. With no detail left to chance in Bora Aksu’s SS13 collection, it is a true marvel and testament to how far he will go in future seasons. A definite five stars all round (including Kelly’s cleavage).
One of our favourite finds of this Fashion Week was Tramp in Disguise, Sini Moilanen’s beautiful label that was shown as part of the Felicities Presents showcase in Somerset House’s Portico Rooms.
Making up the AW/12 collection are jewel coloured silk-mix dresses, jumpsuits and separates and a heavy dose of cosy-looking chunky knitwear which we can’t wait to see styled together. Inspired by the Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico, Finnish-born and RCA-taught Moilanen gave the collection the title ‘Lady of the Dead’ – but don’t worry there’s not a goth accessory or emo chain look in sight.
Moilanen designed the prints herself, based on the decorated skulls and embellishment of the lively Mexican ritual, but by choosing demure necklines and shapes makes them sophisticated and urban for AW/12. This is only her fourth appearance at London Fashion Week but for a designer who’s already stocked in trendy fashion pit-stop Beyond the Valley, it looks like we caught up with the label at just the right time.
For more info, head to trampindisguise.com. If you want to throw your cash at these designs, Tramp in Disguise womenswear is on sale online at Not Just a Label – prices start at £180.
Who: Alexandra Burke, plus loads of ageing celebs including the original supermodel Janice Dickinson, Jo Wood, Duran Duran’s Nick Rhodes and Siouxsie Sioux on the front row. Also actress Jaime Winstone modelled.
I love a bit of LFW drama. And boy was there plenty of it on Sunday night outside the Pam Hogg show. A very pushy lady was being ejected before she’d even got in the door, and she was not happy about it, shrieking and shouting at the bouncers. The drama continued on the catwalk, with a typically jaw-dropping delivery from Hogg. I had to squeeze in at the back of the extremely crowded venue and strain to get a decent view in between other people’s heads, hence my less than perfect photos.
The skintight full-body catsuit is Hogg’s stock in trade, and this season that stock was rendered in myriad variations of red, white and black panels, and silver metallic lycra too, each crowned with a huge neckpiece reminiscent of old fashioned ladies bonnets (or, to be completely honest, those collars that vets put on sick dogs). The suits got skimpier as the show went on, until all that remained in the midst of an entirely see-through gauze number was a tiny strip of black lycra preserving the model’s modesty. Another, which, as you can see from the photo, had Nick Rhodes in stitches, was completely opaque, but had a huge brown fur bonnet attached and a strip of matching fur on the crotch. You’ve got to love Hogg’s sense of humour.
Jaime Winstone’s blushes were saved as she sported a high-necked red, white and grey dress with a stiff full skirt for her turn on the catwalk, during which she stopped halfway for a little dance with another model. There was then an uncharacteristically girly interlude that featured a long sequinned gown and a catsuit, both in baby pink – not a colour you’d associate with punk icon Pam. The sweetness didn’t last for long though, because the final look was pure sex: a confluence of lipstick red bows and a pair of knickers that barely concealed the model’s naughty bits, it could have come straight off the rack at Agent Provocateur. It’s the sort of thing that makes Hogg such a hot LFW ticket each season. When a show features this much nudity, no wonder people are clamouring to get in.
Who: On the way out we were behind singer Kate Nash.
Last season I loved, and I mean LOVED, Spijkers and Spijkers at LFW. So I was pleased to see some echoes of SS12′s fantastic 1920′s vibe remained for autumn/winter. Skipping forward precisely one decade, this time the focus was on the thirties. Ewing Bouvier Beale and ‘Little Edie’ were the muses – a mother and daughter duo who were known for their glamorous but eccentric wardrobes and hectic social lives, well, before they were left abandoned and penniless when Mr Beale upped and left one day, that is.
Whimsical fairground waltz music opened the show and the whimsy continued on the catwalk. Again the Dutch designer twins sent out a lot of silk knee length dresses constructed of graphic coloured panels but the colour palette was much richer than last season – mustard yellow, deep purple and burnt orange clashed in scallopped panels and circular tessellating prints. A couple of mannish trouser suits played up the androdgyny slant the designers are so fond of.
Fashion writer Tim Blanks said something recently about fans of Marni liking the ‘sensuality of expression’ the clothes afford, rather than any obvious sexiness, and the same could be said of the Spijkers’ output this season. Some of these looks were very busy visually, especially where prints were doubled up on jackets and dresses. Pulled apart, though, they’re much more manageable. And for evening the eccentricity factor worked really well with feathery fringing and cute little fabric bird brooches, the ‘birds of paradise’ for which the show was named. The only question that remains now is: will Spijkers en Spijkers head for the 1940′s next season?
‘My favourite show so far’ – that was what I tweeted straight after former ELLE Talent Launch Pad Award Zoe Jordan‘s show. Now I realise that’s not a huge statement to make on day one of London Fashion Week, but it really was a darn good show.
And at the risk of coming out with two moronic utterances in as many paragraphs, this might sound like a stupid thing to say about a fashion show, but it really was all about the clothes. Bear with me here. What I mean is it wasn’t about the theatricality of the production or the spectacular venue or which supers were walking or some pretentious concept. Quite simply, these were clothes that I could imagine in the shops, and on people on the streets, right now. And those people would look good. In a slouchy maroon crochet jumper and pegleg trousers for instance, or a fitted black leather zip up jacket, or a pair of boyish leather shorts. It wasn’t all aimed at stick thin teenagers thought – there were plenty of softly demure knee-length chiffon and lace dresses often styled with chunky grey or fawn knitwear and a waist cinching belt. These Navajo-esque blanket cardigans, plus the stiff wide-brimmed hats and liberal use of leather (in maroon too, a really nice touch) gave an Americana feel throughout. Whatever the origins, this is a collection that will look good on the streets of any city.
Who? Voguettes, Telegraph Fashion Team, the cream of the King’s Road
Sitting in Caroline Charles’ Brompton Road studio, who’d have known that the mayhem of London Fashion Week had already begun? Greeted with a glass of bubbly and listening to the warm refrains of Ella Fitzgerald, we all got cosy in one of those rare salon presentations and were treated to Charles’ take on heritage wear, infused with a British wartime nostalgia.
As one of the original designers to back British Fashion Week over forty years ago, Charles’ is one of biggest proponents of classic British design principles. This season’s designs had a classic, wearable feel, featuring low-key skirt suits and crepe dresses covered with claret coloured velvet jackets. A decidedly feminine collection, this season’s featured all the classic moss and berry autumn tones, but refigured in sumptuous silks, satins and velvets. I also spotted some rather snazzy accessories and jewellery (feathered tiara anyone?) designed by the Bijoux Heart.
Heritage may be a bit of a safe bet when it comes to autumn winter collections but it wasn’t all tweed and tartan. Charles re-spun the Bloomsbury aesthetic with touches of jewel embellishment on sleeves and collars, as well as a healthy dose of leopard print and silver lame in the mix - giving the uber-glam offerings a more youthful edge. All in all, a thoroughly polished start to the season indeed.
Check out the rest of Style & Then Some’s LFW coverage here.
Photos taken with Olympus PEN E-PM1 – for more information see here
Menswear Day. Yep, if you are a regular on the London Fashion Week scene you will be familiar with the one day that British fashion has deemed sufficient enough to collectively show all of its wares every season.
Trailing behind an intense week of non-stop womenswear, almost like an after-thought, Menswear day isn’t given much time to breathe. Bish, bash, bosh, and it’s over. And unlike the Womenswear shows, which follow on seamlessly (okay, we are still hoping that will be the case come September) from one city to the next, Menswear day in London sticks out like a sore thumb.
However, this week the British Fashion Council have unveiled plans to add much needed credibility for London’s menswear designers on the international calendar, and plan to align it with the established Menswear weeks of Paris and Milan. With London poised to take the lead, 15-17th June will see our first ever Menswear week, entitled London Collections: Men. And with some big-boy names getting involved, such as Mr Porter and Topman, hopefully in time it may persuade some of the UK’s brightest menswear designers to return home. Yes Paul Smith, I’m talking to you.
Check out all the manly details over on the LFW website.
We jumped off the bus straight and ran straight into our first show of the season. Twenty minutes late – the show, not us - not bad not bad. For the first half, we were treated to a muted palette with lots of white which still weirdly feels right as winter hasn’t yet drawn in. The models had hair piled up on the top of their heads and ankle length white socks.
All very prim and proper until the swinging skirts and the flouncy shoulders came out. A stripy monochrome smock here and retsrictive white lace there but then we even got some fuchsia in the menswear. Some of the outfits were a lesson in how to wear period drama era bed sheets, in a good way – others just beautifully wearable.
Can anyone else feel the tension building? Nope, not yet? Well, in fashion terms it is the ‘Summer holidays’ still – that slow moving month of August that lulls everyone into a false sense of relaxation. Designers have their hands tied while all their suppliers are on holiday, retailers are starting to gently push their Autumn collections before the first leaf falls, whilst us normal folk are still clinging on to the hope summer might, just might, not end (hence my soggy sandal clad feet in the recent downpours).
But let’s get real. Before you know it, September will be crashing down all around us, and with it will come a whole host of new inspiration courtesy of New York, Paris, London and Milan. And after I have caught myself slyly picking out what fairisle jumpers and crocheted scarves I’m going to be coveting in the upcoming thermal months, even though it is still ironically summer, it’s no wonder September can get a tad confusing. I mean, in a months time I will be picking out what designer rip-offs I’ll be hoping the high street will deliver for NEXT Summer, before I have even got my hands on my Christmas party dress (oh, it’s floor length, rose gold, and sequined, and will be hitting Miss Selfridge’s shop floor running this xmas). It can really mess with one’s head! But we here at Style And Then Some swear by you all we will do our utmost to steer you in the right direction.
And while we wait for September’s big bang, here are a few images of postcards I picked up at the AW11-12 shows. They turn into pop out bookmarks too, and have interesting little factoids relating to each designer on the other side…
Dominic Jones Factoid: His business partner is model Alice Dellal.
Topshop Unique Factoid: Katie Grand has styled the last 6 season shows.
Mary Katrantzou Factoid: She is rarely seen in print! How ironic!
We have all been there. Your ears prick up to the sound of a new song and it takes you months to track down its source.
This happened to me circa London Fashion Week SS11 (last September to be exact), where I was treated to a visual and audio delight. Right before the Hannah Marshall show, a video was played (created by Rankin no less) and which was accompanied by the haunting melodies of ‘Drive’ – to be honest I only found out the title 6 months later…
Having found out through Marshall herself that an unsigned band dubbed Alpines were responsible for my new infatuation, it proved somewhat difficult to track them down, until recently. Now firmly on the gig and festival scene, this boy/girl duo from South West London have firmly cemented their place on my heart, and even more so since they agreed to an interview with Style and then Some:
Me: I first came across Alpines when the song ‘Drive’ featured on the video shown before Hannah Marshall’s SS11 show. How did this come about exactly?
Catherine – That video was made by Rankin and both him and Hannah were looking for a song to soundtrack the film in the build up to fashion week last year. My friend, who I was at art college with, was working in Rankin’s studio and overheard that they were looking for music and put our band name forward. The rest is history!
Me: You are clearly passionate about the arts and the design industry…who are your top inspirations at the moment? Is there anyone, in your opinion, that we should be looking to?
Catherine- I have always loved art and design. For me, they have always gone hand in hand with making music. I am particularly drawn to fashion designers and photographers for inspiration, but also look to art as well. At the moment I am helping to style the video for our next single ‘Cocoon’. The inspiration for this has come from Italian films by Federico Fellini and Italian fashion photographers such as Paolo Roversi. There are a few up and coming people in the British fashion design world who I think are particularly awesome: Phoebe English, Charlie Casely-Hayford and Jenny Postle are the three that spring to mind. They all have a very different approach to fashion design but are all very exciting in their own right. The Alpines blog documents all the things that I am inspired by.
Me: My favourite thing about you is that you cannot be pigeonholed genre-wise, and are successfully weaving together different creative elements into your music…but what I would love to know is what artists do you listen to? e.g. what’s on your ipod!
Catherine – We went record shopping yesterday and bought a few amazing albums which I am very excited to listen through to: Lykke Li, Wild Beasts and Friendly Fires new albums as well as Tom Vek’s debut record and some Brand New. I love all kinds of music but pop, folk and soul are the genres I am most drawn to.
B – Thank you. At the moment I love spacious/ambient music like Talk Talk’s Spirit of Eden and Brian Eno, but I have always had a love of a great pop song. We try to mix all those elements, and make pop music that is intriguing and has depth.
Me: Where do you go in London to get inspired…
Catherine – If I am looking for inspiration to write music or do anything artistic, I will go to gigs or art galleries. The V&A is one of my all time favourite museums, even if I am not going to one of the current exhibitions, the permanent collections are so beautiful and worth exploring. I am also lucky to know many musicians and producers in London and I love seeing them play live. I always find this gives me a new lease of life when it comes to writing my own music.
B – I love going to Richmond Park, which is near where I live in Kingston. It’s nice to be in an open space and a relative wilderness compared to central London.
Me: What does the forthcoming year have in store for you? When can we expect an album?
C atherine- Over the next few months Alpines will be focusing on playing shows and festivals. We have quite a few lined up to play over the summer. Our next single ‘Cocoon’ will be released in July and after that we’ll start thinking about our album – there’s no definite release date yet. In the meantime we will be writing lots of material and perfecting our live set.
B – Hopefully we’ll also be doing some interesting collaborations, and just seeing the reaction as we release more music will be great.
‘My favourite show so far’ – that was what I tweeted straight after former ELLE Talent Launch Pad Award 
