Alice Lee at London Fashion Week AW12 // Modern Day Miss Havisham

What: Alice Lee

When: Saturday 18th February, 2012

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons Hall

London Fashion Week may be over, but I still have one last show review for you all.  And my reasoning behind waiting until after all the catwalks have been dismantled?  Well, it is because, for me, the Alice Lee show deserved my ‘Best Womenswear Award’ (OK, I know right now that doesn’t mean diddley squat, but watch this space). 

The collection itself is cited as being heavily influenced by dark romanticism. It was held in the upper room of Freemasons Hall – a devastatingly gothic and gorgeously seductive space that only added to the show’s drama.  With Alice Lee being known for their sculptural knitwear, a bevy of models sauntered down the runway in an array of skin-tight dresses and leggings, whilst some covered up in oversized structured coats.  Detailing throughout the collection came in the form of plaited and woven leather that accentuated the models’ curves.  No frills, no-nonsense, as they say.

Easily one of, if not the most polished show I have witnessed this season, for me the collection screamed ‘modern day Miss Havisham.’  The modern day woman, jilted by love yet attempting to blindly carry on.  This was confirmed by styling the models with exaggerated sweeping fringes over their eyes, making them tread carefully down the runway, with every chance of crashing in to each other (thankfully this didn’t happen, and no one was hurt during the making of this show).  The grand finale saw the final model strut precariously down the runway with a bouquet-style mask covering the majority of her face.  Although this did seem slightly odd at the time, after digesting the entire show, I do feel this helped tie up the overall themes the label was attempting to demonstrate.

Images credited to Samantha Meachin.

Prose at London Fashion Week AW12 // Shredded Delight

What: Prose

When: Monday, 20th February at 18:30pm

Where:  Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons Hall

Who: Andrew Stone again!

 

This is the first season I am witness to the label Prose.  And with the show being set to an eerie mix of what I believe to be a depressed French love song, I was not expecting bucket loads of frivolity.  And quite rightly so, as the models sauntered down the runway in what appeared, overall, to be a very sombre and subdued collection, from the colour palette right down to the models slick-backed no-nonsense hair styles and thick-set brows. 

The main focal point of the collection for me, was the wonderful techniques that designer Miriam Lehle employed to bring her vision to life.  The almost shredded-like look of some of the garments, seen on selected jackets and tops, are reminiscent of multicoloured plastic ribbon, adorned garments in fluctuating lengths (you would have to mind you didn’t get this fringing caught in the Tube doors, mind).  This tougher look juxtaposed nicely against Lehle’s softer pieces, with almost feather-like loose knitted laddering cascading down dresses (see last photograph).

Prose is described as an evolution collection, taking inspiration from itself in past seasons and organic structures and shapes, and apparently uses little trend-let inspiration.  As someone who works in trend forecasting though, i do have to say the colour palette employed by the label, all navy, beige, yellow and orange (yes, there is absolutely NO escaping tangerine I am afraid) does seem somewhat trend led.  But hey ho, this could have been a lucky fluke!

 

 

Lako Bukia at London Fashion Week AW12 // Hi Ho Silver

What: Lako Bukia

When: Monday 20th February 2012 at 7:30

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Who: My personal favourite celeb of the week, Andrew Stone as well as artist Pandemonia.

The last show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on a Monday and it’s a cold one.  A freezing queue snaked along the walkway outside the venue, eagerly awaiting not only the AW12 offerings by Lako Bukia (a firm favourite of the Style & then Some team – check out last season’s coverage here) but also the guaranteed warmth of hundreds of bodies jam-packed inside.  But alas, mini frozen yoghurts were handed to us on arrival! Oh the irony…

However, once the show started, all negative memories of the last hour outside did pale in insignificance somewhat, as we were greeted by a predominantly jet black and space-aged silver collection.  Picture a modern day Barberella if you will!  Sophisticated, yet playful shirts littered the collection, in sci-fi inspired fabrics, no less, whilst the designer’s piece de le resistance was saved for very last. A sensational shatter-mirror effect dress with sweeping black skirts completely stole the show.  And with a confetti explosion to cap it all off, (to be fair, there was a moment of ‘who got shot?’ panic when this happened) I can honestly say I thoroughly enjoyed Lako Bukia’s futuristic creations.  And with the show being set to a mix of Portishead and Lana Del Rey, two of my absolute faves, I have to admit thus far Lako Bukia is in the running for my favourite show.

Aquascutum at London Fashion Week AW12 // A lesson in modern tradition

Although we were not lucky enough to attend the Aquascutum AW12 show on Saturday, we couldn’t resist sharing these gorgeous images from the new collection with you.  The quintessentially British label took to the runway yesterday afternoon and showcased an array of quality-crafted pieces in bonded wools, reworked english tweeds, fluid silks, shearling and contemporary leather.  With Joanna Sykes (design director for the label) claiming her inspiration was derived from ‘iconic British interiors and  architectural profiles’ it is no wonder such a sleek and no-nonsense collection came about.

Personally, the aviator-style jacket (pictured below) won my heart, and I am glad to see this style still rocking the catwalk after three consecutive seasons.  It is no wonder really, when the aviator oozes versatility and rock-star attitude (I mean, who doesn’t love a pilot?).  It is also brilliant to see a British label who has been established since 1851, and holds such international clout as Aquascutum does, still showing in the UK.  Long live Britannia!

Shao Yen at London Fashion Week AW12 // Olympic Tweed

What: Shao Yen AW12

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Covent Garden

When: Saturday 18th February, 2012

Our final show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on the second day of London Fashion Week was somewhat of a bunfight (I hope this northern expression isn’t lost on too many of our Southern readers).  With a presentation being held by Shao Yen straight after a jam-packed Bernard Chandran catwalk show downstairs, all feet hop-footed it up the grand staircase to get a glimpse of the Taiwanese-born designer’s AW12 show, entitled ‘Class’.

With models perched on plinths around the show space, it did become somewhat of a mission to fight our way across (complimentary cider in hand), and dodge the oddly placed decorative TVs on the floor.  However, despite the blatant flaunting of health and safety rules, I thoroughly enjoyed being able to get up close and personal with the collection and behold the subtle detailing that controlled it.

The use of traditional tweed fabric and classic shapes were turned on their heads by Yen, who evolved these looks by adding a contemporary sports twist.  Elasticated cuffs and waistbands, as well as sporty drawstring adorned trousers and jackets, whilst classic tailored shirts were cropped and given unusual fluid lined hems.  The theme of the collection clearly reflected (ok, so the name ‘class’ is somewhat of a giveaway) a marriage between different social standing.

The use of very traditional fabrics in a thoroughly modern way goes against the general grain, but for Shao Yen’s AW12 collection, it definitely works, and has provided one of the most interesting collections I have seen so far this week, and all very fitting with the impending Olympics!  Let’s wait and see if the Queen will be spotted sporting a tweed tracksuit at the Opening Ceremony!

Elisa Palomino at London Fashion Week AW 2012 // Exotic flowers

What? Elisa Palomino

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons’ Hall

When? Saturday 18th February 2012, 10:30am

I could tell from the invite that Elisa Palomino’s show was going to be floral. Exotic, orchid-like bursts of colour splashed across the catwalk, and silouettes were decidedly 1930′s Hollywood glamour with a few flapper dropped waists appearing again. (It’s nice to see that this is a trend that will carry through to the Winter, in case you’re considering investing in any 1920′s style garb.)

Elaborate hair pieces unfolded their petals of net and satin in hues of yellow and cerise, with black offsetting the bright colours. Velvet, satin, chiffon, and feather trimmings gave the impression that the designer had raided some old-school Hollywood actress’ wardrobe – which I was thoroughly in the mood for after recently seeing the brilliant film, The Artist.

Silks printed and embroidered with Oriental patterns and sheer negligees increased the sense of behind the scenes luxury. I’ve noticed a lot of leopard print around this season, and it was out in strong force at the end of this show, too. (Glamour edging towards the tackier end of the spectrum?)

Photos taken by an Olympus E-PM1