What: Alice Lee
When: Saturday 18th February, 2012
Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons Hall
London Fashion Week may be over, but I still have one last show review for you all. And my reasoning behind waiting until after all the catwalks have been dismantled? Well, it is because, for me, the Alice Lee show deserved my ‘Best Womenswear Award’ (OK, I know right now that doesn’t mean diddley squat, but watch this space).
The collection itself is cited as being heavily influenced by dark romanticism. It was held in the upper room of Freemasons Hall – a devastatingly gothic and gorgeously seductive space that only added to the show’s drama. With Alice Lee being known for their sculptural knitwear, a bevy of models sauntered down the runway in an array of skin-tight dresses and leggings, whilst some covered up in oversized structured coats. Detailing throughout the collection came in the form of plaited and woven leather that accentuated the models’ curves. No frills, no-nonsense, as they say.
Easily one of, if not the most polished show I have witnessed this season, for me the collection screamed ‘modern day Miss Havisham.’ The modern day woman, jilted by love yet attempting to blindly carry on. This was confirmed by styling the models with exaggerated sweeping fringes over their eyes, making them tread carefully down the runway, with every chance of crashing in to each other (thankfully this didn’t happen, and no one was hurt during the making of this show). The grand finale saw the final model strut precariously down the runway with a bouquet-style mask covering the majority of her face. Although this did seem slightly odd at the time, after digesting the entire show, I do feel this helped tie up the overall themes the label was attempting to demonstrate.
Images credited to Samantha Meachin.
When: Monday, 20th February at 18:30pm
Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons Hall
Who: Andrew Stone again!
This is the first season I am witness to the label Prose. And with the show being set to an eerie mix of what I believe to be a depressed French love song, I was not expecting bucket loads of frivolity. And quite rightly so, as the models sauntered down the runway in what appeared, overall, to be a very sombre and subdued collection, from the colour palette right down to the models slick-backed no-nonsense hair styles and thick-set brows.
The main focal point of the collection for me, was the wonderful techniques that designer Miriam Lehle employed to bring her vision to life. The almost shredded-like look of some of the garments, seen on selected jackets and tops, are reminiscent of multicoloured plastic ribbon, adorned garments in fluctuating lengths (you would have to mind you didn’t get this fringing caught in the Tube doors, mind). This tougher look juxtaposed nicely against Lehle’s softer pieces, with almost feather-like loose knitted laddering cascading down dresses (see last photograph).
Prose is described as an evolution collection, taking inspiration from itself in past seasons and organic structures and shapes, and apparently uses little trend-let inspiration. As someone who works in trend forecasting though, i do have to say the colour palette employed by the label, all navy, beige, yellow and orange (yes, there is absolutely NO escaping tangerine I am afraid) does seem somewhat trend led. But hey ho, this could have been a lucky fluke!
What: Lako Bukia
When: Monday 20th February 2012 at 7:30
Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout
Who: My personal favourite celeb of the week, Andrew Stone as well as artist Pandemonia.
The last show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on a Monday and it’s a cold one. A freezing queue snaked along the walkway outside the venue, eagerly awaiting not only the AW12 offerings by Lako Bukia (a firm favourite of the Style & then Some team – check out last season’s coverage here) but also the guaranteed warmth of hundreds of bodies jam-packed inside. But alas, mini frozen yoghurts were handed to us on arrival! Oh the irony…
However, once the show started, all negative memories of the last hour outside did pale in insignificance somewhat, as we were greeted by a predominantly jet black and space-aged silver collection. Picture a modern day Barberella if you will! Sophisticated, yet playful shirts littered the collection, in sci-fi inspired fabrics, no less, whilst the designer’s piece de le resistance was saved for very last. A sensational shatter-mirror effect dress with sweeping black skirts completely stole the show. And with a confetti explosion to cap it all off, (to be fair, there was a moment of ‘who got shot?’ panic when this happened) I can honestly say I thoroughly enjoyed Lako Bukia’s futuristic creations. And with the show being set to a mix of Portishead and Lana Del Rey, two of my absolute faves, I have to admit thus far Lako Bukia is in the running for my favourite show.
Although we were not lucky enough to attend the Aquascutum AW12 show on Saturday, we couldn’t resist sharing these gorgeous images from the new collection with you. The quintessentially British label took to the runway yesterday afternoon and showcased an array of quality-crafted pieces in bonded wools, reworked english tweeds, fluid silks, shearling and contemporary leather. With Joanna Sykes (design director for the label) claiming her inspiration was derived from ‘iconic British interiors and architectural profiles’ it is no wonder such a sleek and no-nonsense collection came about.
Personally, the aviator-style jacket (pictured below) won my heart, and I am glad to see this style still rocking the catwalk after three consecutive seasons. It is no wonder really, when the aviator oozes versatility and rock-star attitude (I mean, who doesn’t love a pilot?). It is also brilliant to see a British label who has been established since 1851, and holds such international clout as Aquascutum does, still showing in the UK. Long live Britannia!
What: Shao Yen AW12
Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Covent Garden
When: Saturday 18th February, 2012
Our final show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on the second day of London Fashion Week was somewhat of a bunfight (I hope this northern expression isn’t lost on too many of our Southern readers). With a presentation being held by Shao Yen straight after a jam-packed Bernard Chandran catwalk show downstairs, all feet hop-footed it up the grand staircase to get a glimpse of the Taiwanese-born designer’s AW12 show, entitled ‘Class’.
With models perched on plinths around the show space, it did become somewhat of a mission to fight our way across (complimentary cider in hand), and dodge the oddly placed decorative TVs on the floor. However, despite the blatant flaunting of health and safety rules, I thoroughly enjoyed being able to get up close and personal with the collection and behold the subtle detailing that controlled it.
The use of traditional tweed fabric and classic shapes were turned on their heads by Yen, who evolved these looks by adding a contemporary sports twist. Elasticated cuffs and waistbands, as well as sporty drawstring adorned trousers and jackets, whilst classic tailored shirts were cropped and given unusual fluid lined hems. The theme of the collection clearly reflected (ok, so the name ‘class’ is somewhat of a giveaway) a marriage between different social standing.
The use of very traditional fabrics in a thoroughly modern way goes against the general grain, but for Shao Yen’s AW12 collection, it definitely works, and has provided one of the most interesting collections I have seen so far this week, and all very fitting with the impending Olympics! Let’s wait and see if the Queen will be spotted sporting a tweed tracksuit at the Opening Ceremony!
What? A La Disposition salon show
Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemason’s Hall
When? Friday 17th September, 4pm – 6pm
Who? Fashion bloggers taking pics of each other taking pics, the designers Daniel Kinne and Lynda Cohen
Helena Bonham Carter’s getting her plastic out as we speak. For the A La Disposition salon show today at Vauxhall Fashion Scout was full of enough eccentric checked tux jackets, voluminous quilted skirts and quirky hats to make any Victoriana fan shake with excitement.
The dimly lit space upstairs in the Freemason’s Hall suited the gothic mood perfectly and the A La Disposition invites “solemnly” requested our presence at the show. It is a shame we only got to see the looks on mannequins as I can imagine these outfits looking great with that huge, romantic poodle hair you sometimes see in fashion editorial. And the models striding down the catwalk, canes in hand.
But the clothes spoke for themselves – top hats, zig-zag patterned pencil skirts and coats with tails that drifted across the marble floor made this one individual collection indeed. The A La Disposition woman for AW12 is on a Tim Burton/ Dickens binge and looking to make a statement.
Check out the rest of Style & Then Some’s LFW coverage here.