VIDEO: London Fashion Week SS12 – the Style and Then Some way

A model opens the John Rocha show on the second day of London Fashion Week SS12. And that’s how you feel when you first try and get into a fashion show as a blogger – the spotlight is on you, the catwalk has never looked longer and everyone else is cool, dark and … watching.

But after that initial moment of fear, the show can begin. Most of your audience are too busy looking dark and mysterious anyway and no-one wants the model to trip up.

Luckily we’re old timers now – apart from Sophie Caldecott, LFW newbie but ever the professional. I put together the video below from catwalk footage we managed to grab, with a few bits and bobs from in between shows. Everything was shot by the S&TS team and our photographers for the week Helene, Faraz and Katie Mogridge.

Image: Faraz Pourreza-Jorshari

The Ones To Watch (or not): London Fashion Week SS12

Phoebe English

Strange though it might sound given its compelling title, I thought the Graduate Showcase and Kingston University Body Laboratory at London Fashion Week were much more inspiring glimpses of the next generation of fashion talent than The Ones To Watch catwalk on the same day. My favourite two designers were Malene Oddershede Bach and Phoebe English who had potential, although her fraying edges were a little bit annoying. *CORRECTION: Since she was featured in October’s Vogue, I have realised that these are not fraying edges but real human hair. [I still find the 'frayed look' annoying, but now I am also seriously creeped out - I have a thing about disembodied human hair, it makes me feel a little sick...]* Alice Lee was technically pretty sharp, but nothing particularly special, and Shao Yen’s bondage style ripped designs just looked amateurish. It felt like flashing boobs for the sake of it, and I’m sure that statement was made a long time ago. Malene Oddershede Bach’s tailoring was interesting – and more importantly – wearable, in brilliant citrus yellows, tropical pinks and turquoises.

I got the feeling the other young designers weren’t so occupied with the commercial aspect of their collections. I know this is high fashion, an art form darling, but we should want to wear at least some of it, even if only as expensive fancy dress.

Phoebe English

Alice Lee

Alice Lee

Shao Yen

Shao Yen

Malene Oddershede Bach

Malene Oddershede Bach

Born This Way: Dans La Vie SS12

What: Dans La Vie SS12

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons Hall

When: Sunday 18th September, 4.45pm

The lights dim and pre-show chatter shushes. The opening gospel of ‘Like a Prayer’ lends its atmosphere, as the first girl comes down the catwalk.

Dans La Vie’s SS12 is inspired by Tokyo in the aftermath of the earthquake in March, the theme ‘Clash Beauty’  and what are termed the Four Pop Madonna’s: Madonna (obv), Amy Winehouse, Rihanna and Lady Gaga and the show is split into four sections by this soundtrack.

Breton stripes met pop in plastic coated outerwear, with Da Vinci inspired prints. As Back to Black blared out from the soundsystem, more sombre hues appeared – complete with cross motifs and see through chiffon.

My favourite piece was a floor length prom style black skirt with a hint of off-duty sugar plum fairy. Vey wearable, if you’re six feet tall.

The Gaga finale track announced a tit tape and balloon skirt combo with bright blue lips – another highlight.

The last look seemed to sum up the collection: a gorgeous headdress with a hint of the ecclesiastical, a barely there blouse and 50s/Pop inspired skirt. Don’t be a drag - just be a queen.

Words Helene Charara.

Not one for wallflowers: Lako Bukia SS12

What? Lako Bukia at London Fashion Week

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons Hall

When? Saturday 17th September, 3.15pm

Who?Erol Sabadosh on the decks, remixing Arcade Fire

A firm favourite with the Style And Then Some team, who have now seen three shows by the emerging designer, Lako Bukia gave us another delightful collection this time with a hand drawn flower print across many of the pieces.

She also gave us beautiful corsets in black, white and red and, as ever, her collars were to die for. Last season we had matching leather collars and cuffs and this time she gave us Asian-inspired buttoned up collars on sleeveless pieces and the aforementioned corsets.

Below the waist, Lako kept to her signature style of flowing chiffon skirts and dresses. Altogether, dramatic but wearable clothes in feminine but strong looks – we can’t wait for next season.

All images Faraz Pourreza-Jorshari.

 

I Spy with my Palace of Versailles: Masha Ma SS12

What? Masha Ma at London Fashion Week

Where? Freemason’s Hall

When? Saturday 17th September, 10.30am

Who? Style and Then Some sitting Front Row – how it should be

Masha Ma kicked off our Day Two this season, to a less than full house at Vauxhall Fashion Scout – not to worry though as this meant more room for Sophie on the front row. It was half past ten on the morning after the first night of Fashion Week after all so maybe all those fashion heads were feeling too sore to make an appearance so early.

Inspired by the reconstruction of the Chateau of Versailles, Ma’s Spring/Summer collection came in shades of midnight blue, mint and a whole lot of off-white. Standout looks included sleeveless jackets, a bib made from hand-sewn gold beads and prints of buildings, doors, frames and handles. White straps bound the models’ heads and ponytails were long, straight and slick.

Ma made a feature of the open back, a quick-fire way for sophisticated sex appeal if ever we saw one and zips also featured heavily in adorning the pieces, helping to toughen up the look together with stilettos wrapped in white plastic. So how does the collection compare to the palace? Let us know below.

All images Faraz Pourreza-Jorshari.

Am I an alien? Corrie Nielsen SS12

What? Corrie Nielsen at London Fashion Week

Where? My Beautiful Fashion, The Old Sorting Office

When? Friday 16th September, 10am

Who? Our fave gentleman of fashion Colin McDowell sitting FROW

Inspired by Dorian Gray and with a soundtrack by Ken Watanabe, Corrie Nielsen’s SS12 show didn’t disappoint. The ex-Vivienne Westwood designer delivered theatrical pleats and architectural shapes – giving a whole new meaning to the phrase “peplum trend”.

With lots of nods to Japan, the models walked at a snails pace underneath the shining baubles lining the ceiling of the gloomy Old Sorting Office. But that gave us plenty of time to admire the pintucks around the breasts on the dresses, the gathered fabric on metallic trenches and otherworldly make-up – green eyeshadow with strong black brows.

Now we just need to find a Victorian aristocrat who’s throwing an Orient-themed party to wear the collection to. If you hear of one, tweet us. We’ll wear Nielsen’s beautiful black coat, complete with train.