In a sea of digitally printed dresses – lovely on the eye as they often are – sometimes you’re looking for a bit of texture, embellishment or just something a bit more exotic at London Fashion Week. So it’s a breath of fresh air when all three are handed to you on a plate. And by plate we mean a stunning, statuesque model like this one.
Russian designer Veronica Basharatyan mixed up traditional and modern influences not to mention delicate, sheer blouses with densely knitted skirts and heavy coats for her AW12 collection ‘Balkaria’, shown at Felicities Presents this season.
Both the model and the designer (below) pulled off the tricky layered, transparent blouses plus the Basharatyan model had statement shoulders to contend with too. So maybe not all practical but the clothes certainly looked beautiful and supremely well made.
For news and to buy online, visit the BasharatyanV website. You can buy last season BasharatyanV at Boutique 123 on Bethnal Green road, London and Veronica is also showing her designs in Paris, Milan and during Fashion Week Russia.
Images credit: Samantha Meachin
What: Alice Lee
When: Saturday 18th February, 2012
Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons Hall
London Fashion Week may be over, but I still have one last show review for you all. And my reasoning behind waiting until after all the catwalks have been dismantled? Well, it is because, for me, the Alice Lee show deserved my ‘Best Womenswear Award’ (OK, I know right now that doesn’t mean diddley squat, but watch this space).
The collection itself is cited as being heavily influenced by dark romanticism. It was held in the upper room of Freemasons Hall – a devastatingly gothic and gorgeously seductive space that only added to the show’s drama. With Alice Lee being known for their sculptural knitwear, a bevy of models sauntered down the runway in an array of skin-tight dresses and leggings, whilst some covered up in oversized structured coats. Detailing throughout the collection came in the form of plaited and woven leather that accentuated the models’ curves. No frills, no-nonsense, as they say.
Easily one of, if not the most polished show I have witnessed this season, for me the collection screamed ‘modern day Miss Havisham.’ The modern day woman, jilted by love yet attempting to blindly carry on. This was confirmed by styling the models with exaggerated sweeping fringes over their eyes, making them tread carefully down the runway, with every chance of crashing in to each other (thankfully this didn’t happen, and no one was hurt during the making of this show). The grand finale saw the final model strut precariously down the runway with a bouquet-style mask covering the majority of her face. Although this did seem slightly odd at the time, after digesting the entire show, I do feel this helped tie up the overall themes the label was attempting to demonstrate.
Images credited to Samantha Meachin.
One of our favourite finds of this Fashion Week was Tramp in Disguise, Sini Moilanen’s beautiful label that was shown as part of the Felicities Presents showcase in Somerset House’s Portico Rooms.
Making up the AW/12 collection are jewel coloured silk-mix dresses, jumpsuits and separates and a heavy dose of cosy-looking chunky knitwear which we can’t wait to see styled together. Inspired by the Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico, Finnish-born and RCA-taught Moilanen gave the collection the title ‘Lady of the Dead’ – but don’t worry there’s not a goth accessory or emo chain look in sight.
Moilanen designed the prints herself, based on the decorated skulls and embellishment of the lively Mexican ritual, but by choosing demure necklines and shapes makes them sophisticated and urban for AW/12. This is only her fourth appearance at London Fashion Week but for a designer who’s already stocked in trendy fashion pit-stop Beyond the Valley, it looks like we caught up with the label at just the right time.
For more info, head to trampindisguise.com. If you want to throw your cash at these designs, Tramp in Disguise womenswear is on sale online at Not Just a Label – prices start at £180.
Image credit: Samantha Meachin
Where: BFC Courtyard Showspace, Somerset House
When: Monday 20th February at 7pm
Who: Poppy Delevigne, Theresa May, Harold Tillman, Bip Ling
No that isn’t a typo. The Frow at Osman on Monday night took a surprising political turn, as Home Secretary Theresa May took up her seat alongside BFC Chairman Harold Tillman and star blogger Liberty London Girl. And why not? A favourite of SamCam and Sarah Brown, Osman’s collections have always been a big draw for the fashion-savvy politicos ensconced on Downing Street.
With a set that included a vibrant printed carpet catwalk, this season Osman treated us to a journey through the orient. White shirts were accompanied by ornate brocade collars and matching booties; cape backed blouses and skinny fit trousers were constructed out of richly embroidered chinoiserie fabrics. Even leather skirts, with Osman’s trademark U-shaped hems, were given a blood red lining – instantly lifting the monochromatic looks.
Moving on from a colour scheme of reds, white and black, Osman’s later looks incorporated a moss-green hue – set off brilliantly by bright blue pom-pom and gold accessories by Erickson Beamon. Yes, all the Osman design signatures were there- that elegant curve of the waistline, the neat silhouette of a trouser suit -but refigured in exotic prints and fabrics, here was a collection perfect for brightening up those dark winter days.
Images and video credit: Samantha Meachin
What: Raeffaele Ascione AW12 at London Fashion Week
Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemason’s Hall
When: Sunday 19th September 6pm – 8pm
Images credit: Samantha Meachin.
What: Eudon Choi AW12 at LFW
Where: Portico Rooms, Somerset House
When: Saturday 18th February, 6.45pm
Who: Susie Bubble and Elle staffers waiting to go into the 7.30pm Eudon Choi show
Walking into the Terra Nova (new land) that designer Eudon Choi had created for himself in the Somerset House Portico Rooms, we were greeted by darkness and a projection of nature footage in moody monochrome. Not exactly your everyday salon show.
Eudon Choi for AW12 was refreshingly and obviously autumn and winterwear with fur lined hoods, a muted and sophsticated colour palette (bar a pop of blue) and the least sexy pair of elbow-length gloves I have ever seen. What looked like swim caps – in black, white or doused in sequins – adorned some of the models’ heads and it’s no surprise, what with Choi’s menswear background, that the focus was on beautiful tailoring. His womenswear training at the RCA hasn’t been forgotten though. The stand out looks were a two tone, textured coat that looked straight out of Proenza Schouler and an asymmetrical, fitted top paired with a demure knee-length (but sexily slit) skirt. Both are strong and feminine without screaming ‘alpha female’.
Choi’s team staged a wonderful “fashion moment” (above) that gently unfolded look by look. The models arranged themselves on the white chairs and stools, grabbing a pair of binoculars each and staring into the crowd – who, as any seasoned LFW goers will know, were hell bent on papping the womenswear to within a thread of its life. The ensemble reminded me of a female photographer who took snaps of any man that wolf-whistled or heckled at her in the street. And even though it’s more likely Choi had his Terra Nova theme in mind, I’m willing to agree to disagree with the Korean wunderkid.
Images credit: Samantha Meachin, Katie Wright
What: Spijkers en Spijkers AW2012
Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Covent Garden
When: Saturday 18th February, 2012
Who: On the way out we were behind singer Kate Nash.
Last season I loved, and I mean LOVED, Spijkers and Spijkers at LFW. So I was pleased to see some echoes of SS12′s fantastic 1920′s vibe remained for autumn/winter. Skipping forward precisely one decade, this time the focus was on the thirties. Ewing Bouvier Beale and ‘Little Edie’ were the muses – a mother and daughter duo who were known for their glamorous but eccentric wardrobes and hectic social lives, well, before they were left abandoned and penniless when Mr Beale upped and left one day, that is.
Whimsical fairground waltz music opened the show and the whimsy continued on the catwalk. Again the Dutch designer twins sent out a lot of silk knee length dresses constructed of graphic coloured panels but the colour palette was much richer than last season – mustard yellow, deep purple and burnt orange clashed in scallopped panels and circular tessellating prints. A couple of mannish trouser suits played up the androdgyny slant the designers are so fond of.
Fashion writer Tim Blanks said something recently about fans of Marni liking the ‘sensuality of expression’ the clothes afford, rather than any obvious sexiness, and the same could be said of the Spijkers’ output this season. Some of these looks were very busy visually, especially where prints were doubled up on jackets and dresses. Pulled apart, though, they’re much more manageable. And for evening the eccentricity factor worked really well with feathery fringing and cute little fabric bird brooches, the ‘birds of paradise’ for which the show was named. The only question that remains now is: will Spijkers en Spijkers head for the 1940′s next season?
Image and Video credit: Samantha Meachin.
What: Dans La Vie
Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout
When: Saturday 18th September 1pm
The bass was heavy and the coats were shiny at Dans La Vie this season. After showing us plasticky florals for Spring/Summer we got a mixture of 60s pop art and Japanese high priest references in the same 50s fitted dress and trench coat shapes we’re familiar with.
The outerwear had fun touches like leopard print fur or grey knitwear collars but to be honest it didn’t need it. Dans La Vie showed every crazy coat you could ever imagine wearing – from patent snakeskin to hoods with a zip coming down over the model’s head.
Tulle and tutu’s burst out from beneath a few biker jackets plus the relaxed sportswear brought the extravaganza down a notch. We also got some fun headwear in the form of what looked like a bright blue egg bursting and a circular purple and orange piece.
The highlights of the show for us were actually the round sunglasses (especially the blue ones that opened the show) and the pink highlights in some of the blonde haired models. It doesn’t always have to be the clothes you fall in love with.
Image and Video credit: Samantha Meachin.
Check out the rest of Style & Then Some’s LFW coverage here.
All you lovely Style & Then Some readers are invited to Common People – a charity art exhibition, curated and organised by Sophie Charara with desserts by our own culinary goddess Sophie Caldecott and featuring work from Style & Then Some photographers Helene Charara and Faraz Pourreza-Jorshari.
The rest of the Style & Then Some team will be out in force next Friday, 9th December at The Studio, 55 Leroy Street SE1 4SR. The nearest tube stations are Borough (10 mins) Elephant and Castle (15 mins) and London Bridge (20 mins) or get a bus to Old Kent Road and get off at the Bricklayer’s Arms stop.
Other young artists, photographers and designers showing their work on the night include: Samantha Meachin, Lily Dunlop, Tom Peet, Emma Goodman, Ismahan Rashid, Doug Stewart, Andy Shrubsole, Scott Taylor, Rosie Caldecott and Frances Ives.
The £4 entry donation gets you a free drink, gorgeous canapes and dessert plus music all night. All profits will go to Amnesty International and the Disaster Emergency Committee and most of the work will be for sale if you want to start your collections early.
COME AND BRING YOUR FRIENDS
Poster credit: Samantha Meachin
Ever ask your friend to grab a joke dress to try on so she can come in the changing room with you? There’s the matronly looking joke dress above – pale mauve maxi tunic with pleated skirt – but fast forward two minutes in the H&M changing rooms and I thought I’d wandered into a production of A Midsummer’s Night Dream.
Although it needs some quality time with an iron, the dress (£25, H&M) and Samantha’s accessories were meant to be together. Gold Michael Kors watch, camel H&M wedges, gold pocketwatch necklace and loose, romantic curls.
H&M hanger 0, Samantha 1.
If you’ve ever picked up a random pair of trousers or floaty top that looked amazing once you’d got it on or had high hopes for a frilly frou-frou confection that didn’t quite come off, send us your Me versus The Hanger photos to firstname.lastname@example.org.