Twist and stomp: John Rocha SS12

What? John Rocha at London Fashion Week

Where? BFC, Somerset House

When? Saturday 17th September, 5pm

Who? As we waited under our umbrellas outside we watched all the big UK editors file in (Alexandra Shulman of Vogue and Jo Elvin of Glamour) plus bigtime blogger Susie Bubble.

Last season I had a ticket for the John Rocha show and I queued patiently only to be turned away, along with about 100 other people, because the BFC show space had reached capacity. Determined not to let this happen again I turned up 20 minutes early today and was sure it would all be fine since I was right at the front of the queue of standees having gone up to make sure our photographer Faraz made it in to the photo pit.

But alas my hope was dashed when we (again, there were easily 100 others) heard the music start and knew the show was under way. I won’t get into a rant about the ticket allocating procedure (there are enough shows with empty seats to understand why the PRs do it) but I will say I don’t think I’ll be chancing my luck with Mr Rocha next season.

The only silver lining to this fashion week storm cloud was that I got to go into the pop up cinema that has been installed in the BFC foyer for the first time this season and watch the show streamed live all the way from, well, about 20 metres away actually. In spite of my disappointment, I have to admit it was a great show. Not because I actually wanted to wear many of the clothes, but because it was such a coherent and well-realised production.

From the hefty platform-soled sandals that caused the models (including first out Abbey Lee Kershaw) to stomp moodily down the catwalk, to the downbeat, driving soundtrack, it all conspired to create a darkly atmospheric production. And what about the clothes? It was all about texture. Seaweed-like ruffles, raffia, crochet, feathers, irregular pleating – mostly on A-line skirted dresses, almost nothing lay flat against the skin. The densest pieces were a tangle of strands so fine they resembled cassette tape. This being Rocha, most ensembles were all black, but half way through we saw the light, from palest faun to outright white, and the first pair of trousers, wide-legged and to-the-floor.

Arguably the most wearable was the outerwear. A couple of double-breasted jackets, one sleeveless, were positively middle of the road when compared with the crunchy crochet that preceded them. According to the show notes (which I had to read vicariously via Twitter because, as I might have mentioned, I wasn’t in the venue) Rocha wanted to create warrior woman outfits, and that he did. You’d have to have a pretty fierce attitude to get away with some of these looks.

All images Faraz Pourreza-Jorshari.

Kaleidoscopic, don’t stop it: Basso and Brooke SS12

What? Basso and Brooke at London Fashion Week

Where? The Old Sorting Office

When? Friday 16th September, 6pm

Who? Hilary Alexander apparently sat on the floor, but we couldn’t see from our standing right at the back position

Basso and Brooke was one of the shows I was looking forward to the most and I didn’t leave The Old Sorting Office disappointed. Silhouettes were long, lean but still fluid and romantic and the statement necklaces were tribal and eclectic. But it was always going to be about the clashing prints – the looks started off with speckled patterns and huge flowers then turned to geometrical shapes, psychadelic blues and finished with dark, moody monochrome.

 

Wicked in white: Paul Costelloe SS12

What? Paul Costelloe SS12 at London Fashion Week

Where? BFC Showspace

When? Friday 16th September at 9am (ouch)

Who? Sat with @bumpkinbetty

We jumped off the bus straight and ran straight into our first show of the season. Twenty minutes late – the show, not us - not bad not bad. For the first half, we were treated to a muted palette with lots of white which still weirdly feels right as winter hasn’t yet drawn in. The models had hair piled up on the top of their heads and ankle length white socks.

All very prim and proper until the swinging skirts and the flouncy shoulders came out. A stripy monochrome smock here and retsrictive white lace there but then we even got some fuchsia in the menswear. Some of the outfits were a lesson in how to wear period drama era bed sheets, in a good way – others just beautifully wearable.

September Issues: We are here to help!

Can anyone else feel the tension building?  Nope, not yet?  Well, in fashion terms it is the ‘Summer holidays’ still – that slow moving month of August that lulls everyone into a false sense of relaxation.  Designers have their hands tied while all their suppliers are on holiday, retailers are starting to gently push their Autumn collections before the first leaf falls, whilst us normal folk are still clinging on to the hope summer might, just might, not end (hence my soggy sandal clad feet in the recent downpours).

But let’s get real.  Before you know it, September will be crashing down all around us, and with it will come a whole host of new inspiration courtesy of New York, Paris, London and Milan.   And after I have caught myself slyly picking out what fairisle jumpers and crocheted scarves I’m going to be coveting in the upcoming thermal months, even though it is still ironically summer, it’s no wonder September can get a tad confusing.  I mean, in a months time I will be picking out what designer rip-offs I’ll be hoping the high street will deliver for NEXT Summer, before I have even got my hands on my Christmas party dress (oh, it’s floor length, rose gold, and sequined, and will be hitting Miss Selfridge’s shop floor running this xmas).   It can really mess with one’s head!  But we here at Style And Then Some swear by you all we will do our utmost to steer you in the right direction.

And while we wait for September’s big bang, here are a few images of postcards I picked up at the AW11-12 shows.  They turn into pop out bookmarks too, and have interesting little factoids relating to each designer on the other side…

Dominic Jones Factoid: His business partner is model Alice Dellal.

Topshop Unique Factoid:  Katie Grand has styled the last 6 season shows.

Mary Katrantzou Factoid:  She is rarely seen in print!  How ironic!