LFW got that Gangnam Style (sort of)

After so many seasons at London Fashion Week, you start to become pretty desensitized to it all. All the stylists laden with equal quantities of PR contacts and Mawi jewellery begin to blur together, and outfits usually only seen in children’s nightmares become the norm. Personally, I stopped trying this season. I ditched my 6-inch wedges and pleather skinnies in favour of flats – and not falling flat on my face on the cobbles of Somerset House. I also made sure I had pockets galore to stash emergency pens, tickets, passes, camera lenses and painkillers. I am actually considering a utility belt next season, in a completely un-ironic and totally practical way. I’m just scared I’ll kick off some new ridiculous Bob The Builder trend and get trolled by the trade unions. Someone even complimented me this week on the fact I hadn’t ‘dressed up’ and how it was totally ‘refreshing to see’. I am 98% positive this was said in an ironic way, but I’m still cashing in that compliment, you hear.

After trawling through about a zillion of our photographs from London Fashion Week, we decided to put a top ten rundown together highlighting the – shock horror – FUN we had and hilarious sights we saw, amidst all the seriousness and ridiculousness. So here it is, our attempt at injecting a little humour back into LFW. God knows it needs it.

1. We think we found our Prince

We couldn’t tell if this joker was an actual member of the royal family or had just popped to Burger King. We know K-Middy and co are usually Frow at Issa, but maybe he was just lost looking for Raffles? Either way, he definitely needed to get some air into his crown quick-smart.  I think the only other guy spotted who topped our Prince Charming was the idiot in the ‘Free Shags’ t-shirt walking around Somerset House hand in hand with his GIRLFRIEND.

2. We found out why Burberry don’t just let anyone in

Major tip: if all you desires is to get papped by a street style photographer, one sure-fire way to succeed is to basically wear everything you own (but, in the words of Joey Tribbiani, you ‘better not do any lunges’). Wearing a dress with actual teddy bears as shoulder pads does not make you the height of fashion, it makes you look like you got lost on the way to your audition for Nightmare on Sesame Street. As the greats do say, there is a fine line between style and peacocking fashion.

3. We found an actual triple threat

In the immortal words of Andrew Stone, of Pineapple Dance Studios fame, these guys are a true triple threat. They WILL threaten you if you dare to question their choice in man-clutches. Oh, and they have also perfected the art of synchronized walking. Bravo, my friends, bravo.

4. We found the happiest man alive at Fashion Week

Contrary to popular belief, you are allowed to smile at fashion week, as proved by this cheeky chappy. I’m not even 100% convinced he was working, as I saw him grab his coat and dash out of Somerset house about 5 minutes after I took this photo. Maybe he had Bob Geldofesque tendencies and was attempting to feed the models. Or just really friggin’ loves his popcorn. Either way, he was the happiest guy we saw all weekend.

5. We found out we are potentially the only two people eating at Fashion Week

After we accosted said happiest man alive for his ‘corn, it appeared we were the only people who dared eat in public within a two mile radius. We know this is usually a maaaaajar faux pas, but after 10 hours on your feet the sight of a free bag of sweet and salty is enough to make anyone drool.

6. We found that Gangnam style

Watch out London, the phenomenon that is Gangnam Style has already infiltrated the walls of Somerset House and your wardrobe is next. Hell, we’re seriously considering a trip to Korean Fashion Week just to see if the models Gangnam all the way down the catwalks.

7. …and that Katie is a pro

Having already perfected the art of Gangnam, Katie gave us a lesson in riding the invisible horse in between shows. Perhaps we should have crashed a few shows and made our own Gangnam parody – but I’m pretty certain Henry Holland would have had us blacklisted for life if we’d dared.

8. We found the worst PR team ever

When you’re sitting in a meeting room, planning the publicity for your fashion show, and someone suggests you could cut a few corners and just chalk out directions on the pavement, you need to FIRE THEM.  Honestly, what if it had rained?!

9. We found out a lot about the Freemasons

Whilst we were camped out at Freemasons Hall for all the Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows, our Katie got talking to a real life Freemason, and by all accounts got a 20 minute history lesson too. It turns out that Freemasons Hall is still the Global headquarters for all the Freemasons and not just a fashion show location twice a year. Go figure.

10. I hate to see you go, but I love to watch you leave!

Oh Fashion Week. We’ve had our highs and we’ve had our lows. It makes sense we only see each other every six months my darling, but can we still be frenemies? Until next time, air kisses sweetie! Now can someone direct me back to the real world please?

Bernard Chandran SS13 at London Fashion Week | From Spring Lamb to the gates of Amnesia

The last show of my day yesterday was the Bernard Chandran catwalk show hosted by Vauxhall Fashion Scout.  Despite the show running late, panic rippling through the queue that no one in the mile long line would get in, and having to put up with the ridiculous chatter of a teenage fashion wannabe and his ‘triple clash’ schedule (obviously spoken in decibels so that everyone in his radius could hear), I pretty much just wanted a cup of tea and my bed.  But alas, like a trooper I stuck out the delay, and I am pretty confident everyone in that queue did actually get in.  There’s nothing like a bit of fashion mob mentality to wake you up I guess.  There’s always the risk you will get stabbed for your place in the line with a Jeffrey Campbell spiked heel.

The SS13 offerings from Bernard Chandran started off extremely promising.  White starched dresses in broderie anglaise made me want to take up tennis immediately, or be transformed in to one of those women who never spills red wine or gets splashed by buses passing by, just to flounce around dinner parties wearing my ‘Chandran’ and investing in a job lot of Bold down at the cash and carry.  The initial offerings were extremely feminine, fitting in nicely with the overall theme of London Fashion Week for SS13, but as the seconds ticked by the collection did get a bit confusing.  Clashing patterns, geometric shapes, and even an appearance of blue leather blended in with jeweled embellishments throughout the second half.  The collection seemed to go from early spring, fresh as a sophisticated lamb, to late summer nights in Ibiza, glitzing all the way to the doors of Amnesia.  Not that this is necessarily a bad thing.  The audience seemed to love it, and there were an exceptionally large number of outfits on show.  Maybe I just really needed that cup of tea.

Ones to Watch SS13 at London Fashion Week

Each season, the four Merit Award Winners show collectively at London Fashion Week’s off-schedule Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue. We went along on Saturday afternoon to find out if these four emerging designers really are worth a ‘Ones to Watch’ moniker.

You hardly (if ever) see catwalk photographs of model’s backs, but the snappers in the pit would have done well to break with convention for Ming Pin Tien, whose first few looks, cropped beige shirts and parkas, were lined with a scaly contrasting print down the spine, emulating amphibious scales. The motif got a tad repetitive, but it was more than made up for when a major change of pace arrived mid show. An oxblood red dress with leather harness detailing at the back lead the way for a host of show-stopping leather work. There was a notable straitjacket feel to the off-white and biscuit trenches with fastenings at (you guessed it) the back, while the ivory lattice cocoon coat and red leather cage top were distinctly asylum-esque.

By far the most accomplished designer on show, Charlotte Simpson‘s talent was evident from the very first look: a loose ivory silk knee-length sleeved dress finished with a wide panel of yellow and lime green caviar beading at the hem. The soft focus separates that followed (slouchy shorts, trousers and blazers) would make an ideal vacation wardrobe for some impossibly stylish Parisienne summering in St Tropez. Our golden tanned maven would look even better apres beach. Simpson’s slew of pale evening gowns augmented with matte copper and rose gold sequins culminated in a triumphant column covered from top to bottom in degrade gold sequins that would truly shine on the Cannes red carpet.

Hellen Van Rees‘s collection was a bit too much of a one trick pony for my liking. The trick? Cuboids the size of toothpaste boxes covered in coloured tweed and strewn round models wrists and heads, and on the hems of dresses. The fabric’s credentials may have been sustainable in an environmental sense, but this needlessly outlandish approach isn’t, I fear, sustainable career-wise.

Hana Cha presented a dystopian vision of the American dream in clothing form. The flouncy tassels of a cheerleader’s pompoms; a Wall Street banker’s suit; Jackson Pollock’s splattergun painting technique; and, of course, the humble baseball cap, all were here. But they were subverted in a monochrome line up of stars and stripes goes goth. There was wearability, though, in some loosely structured blazers and some fringed maxidresses that were more Dalston than Wasington, D.C.

 

Photos: Faraz Pourreza-Jorshari www.boomson.com

Ji Cheng SS13 at London Fashion Week | More tea, Emperor?

When the Style & Then Some team first received our invites to Ji Cheng’s SS13 catwalk show, we were slightly confused as to whether we had received what looked, and smelled, remarkably like a sashay of potpurri.

Clearly showing our own ignorance, once seated inside Freemasons Hall on Saturday afternoon all was explained.   It turns out it wasn’t potpurri at all, but tea leaves!  Just not the kind of Tetley’s variety we are used to.   Ji Cheng’s collection, dubbed ‘Teaism’ called upon the sacred tradition of tea drinking in China and the Eastern World, and how it’s viewed as the most dignified way to entertain guests in Eastern culture.   Not your standard English cuppa then…

With the catwalk  itself strewn with tea leaves, this was somewhat of a ‘more tea, Emperor?’  take on our western ‘vicar’, and did have me thinking about how blase the Western world is about something so precious to others.   Hell, Britain built a whole empire on it, and the Yanks had the audacity to chuck it all overboard.  Maybe we should be worshipping our teapots a bit more like our Eastern brethren, eh?

But anyway, back to the collection!  While I did initially think ‘tea’ would be a hard thing to translate in to inspiration for an entire collection, it was with relief that not one model sashayed down the runway in a pyramid bag (maybe I should trademark that and send it to the Haus of Gaga?).  Instead, we were greeted with a fresh, sophisticated collection, that not only screamed feminism (grown up girly is in by the way,  sorry tom boys), but also subtly yet effectively hawked back to the theme through colour, flowing lines and silhouettes, and the tea fields of China where Ji Cheng started her creative process through the use of hats reminiscent of the type worn by tea leaf collectors.   Silk trims, layers, bias cuts, sheers and peplums all dominated (yes, that’s right, the peplum has survived aw12 and has made it through to Spring!) and flashes of black reminded us of the seriousness in which tea is taken in Eastern culture.   Overall, Ji Cheng has managed to create a collection that could otherwise have seemed obvious, yet managed to maintain subtlety and an air of freshness for SS13.  Now, I’m off to dunk my invite in some water.

Photos: Faraz Pourreza-Jorshari www.boomson.com

London Fashion Week SS13 – a Style and Then Some preview

The glamour. The anticipation. The excitement… Of sending out catwalk show request after catwalk show request for London Fashion Week.

Yes while you may still be picking apart February’s shows for Autumn/Winter inspiration, the prep for LFW SS13 is already upon us. In fact we’ve already had our first invite in the post. So we thought we’d put together this little guide to give you an idea of what fashion madness to expect this time around.

London Fashion Week SS13: Schedule and Shows

This season’s shows run from Friday 14th September to Tuesday 18th September 2012, in and around Somerset House and the Freemason’s Hall in Covent Garden. You can see the full (provisional) schedule here so you can plan when to check Twitter and S&TS coverage for your favourite designers.

Friday is the best day for street style gawking so if you get a chance, have a peek inside the Somerset House courtyard – you don’t need a pass. As the days pass, less and less theatrical outfits show up – so opening day is an essential if you want a taste of Fashion Week.

London Fashion Week SS13: Labels coming to London

After Burberry Prorsum kick-started the trend of showing in London a few seasons back, there’s a whole host of big names taking time to visit our little capital with their wares. Preen by Thornton Bregazzi is ditching New York for London, rag & bone is holding an exclusive presentation in its flagship Sloane Square shop and Moschino Cheap & Chic is staying put too.

London Fashion Week SS13: New Fashion Talent

Fashion East is a good starting point for new, breaking designers: this year the line-up includes the debut collection of Claire Barrow (who has created pieces for Joseph and impressed Rihanna), the knitwear maestro from Hong Kong Ryan Lo and the very exciting Maarten van der Horst who’s showing for the third time and already has a Topshop capsule collection under his belt.

Speaking of Topshop, the NEWGEN winners for SS13 have also been announced: they include S&TS favourites Michael van der Ham and Christopher Raeburn as well as Simone Rocha, J.W. Anderson and some new talent showing at the exhibition including Sophia Webster, Huishan Zhang and Palmer/Harding.

And if that wasn’t enough, we’ll be working Vauxhall Fashion Scout and trawling the exhibition for fresh labels and designers come London Fashion Week. Let us know any tips via Twitter on @style_thensome.

James Small and Ones To Watch AW12 // Where Them Boys At?

After a hard week of Fashion Show grafting from the Style & Then Some team, I decided that the last day, namely the last ever Menswear Day in London, (it will be expanded to three days in June to coincide with the international Menswear Weeks hosted by Milan and Paris) should be given a proper send off.  And let’s face it, when you’re reporting from the front line (or the back row, depending on how lucky you get) it isn’t all glamour and high heels.  

Oh no, it’s elbows and being knocked out by camera lenses in the photographer’s pit, or else craning your neck and spraining your ankles for a good view from the standing section.  But, as I am sure you will agree with me if you too have been in the trenches this season (comrades, I applaud you), that afterwards, when you sit back and drink it all in, it’s just so worth it.

But back to the Boys I hear you say!  Well, yesterday (Wednesday) I decided to enlist the help of two male friends and drag them (actually, they were both well up for it) along to the Ones to Watch:Men and James Small shows respectively.  My aim of the night was to analyse their attitudes towards the shows, and get some variations on male opinions regarding the collections on offer.  After a week of straight womenswear and women’s opinions on Style & Then Some, I thought it would be a nice change of pace to sit back and let the boys do the talking.

First up, was Adam, at the Ones To Watch: Men showcase.  The show saw Bodybound, Joseph Turvey, Julian Zigerli and Tobefrank showcase their AW12 efforts and this was to be Adam’s first ever fashion show.  Despite making comments like ‘that’s a funny little outfit, aye’ outside the venue to several fellow spectators, it was refreshing to hear a guy, who doesn’t work in the fashion industry, tell it like he saw it.  With regards to his favourite collection on offer, Adam declared it was to be Julian Zigerli.   When asked why, it turns out it was because the garments were ’ all using light patterns, you know, Paisley and that’ and that the shades were to his liking- ‘All bold autumn colours, stone, brown and green, like’.

Despite me watching Zigerli’s technical structures in awe, such as a conceptual top that functioned with a built-in backpack, my companion pointed out that this would be damn impractical and useless for the everyday man…something I cannot argue with.  ’You’d have to take your top off to put anything in your bag!’ he quite rightly pointed out.  Damn, why are men so practical!  With regards to the other designers showcasing, me and Adam were in agreement that Bodybound was a shimmering delight (my words, not his).  With gold foiling being a major trend on knitwear for women for the last two seasons, it has finally made its way into menswear.  Just another excuse to steal your BF’s clothes girls.

After a quick Corona, I traded my fashion show newbie in for a seasoned pro.  Daniel Thomas, a menswear designer and fellow Leeds College of Art post-graduate accompanied me to the closing show of the season, the highly anticipated James Small spectacular, sponsored by the amazing Vauxhall Fashion Scout (thank you for letting us decamp at Freemasons Hall all week, by the way!).  After somehow managing to blag second row seats, the show began to quickly fill up with celebs such as Jaime Winstone, Jo Wood, Mr Hudson and, lo and behold, Mr. and Mrs. Kate Moss.  I fear I may have actually been blinded by her engagement ring from across the room.  The collection itself was incredible, and my second companion commented on the show thusly:

    ‘The James Small show was the perfect end to Fashion Week – they always save the best for last.  For me the best pieces from the show were the jersey skinny trousers and the jersey waders were insane. The wool jackets were so stylish and well cut, and the use of pockets throughout the collection was just brilliant.  The patch pockets with flaps can sometimes look really messy but I felt they were really considered in the design of the garments. There was one double-breasted blue jacket with Raglan sleeves which was to die for. It was so well cut and well designed I felt it was like a jacket you would wear in Fashion Heaven.  I really liked the fur in the collection as well – the big hug in a mug jacket was amazing.  So Pete Burns chic. Overall the whole collection was a huge success.  Plus personally I would wear every last one of the garments that came down the catwalk.’

Overall, it was a good little experiment to gain different insights in to the male psyche.  Plus I got to sit back and watch a whole host of male models, and Kate Moss.

   

Prose at London Fashion Week AW12 // Shredded Delight

What: Prose

When: Monday, 20th February at 18:30pm

Where:  Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons Hall

Who: Andrew Stone again!

 

This is the first season I am witness to the label Prose.  And with the show being set to an eerie mix of what I believe to be a depressed French love song, I was not expecting bucket loads of frivolity.  And quite rightly so, as the models sauntered down the runway in what appeared, overall, to be a very sombre and subdued collection, from the colour palette right down to the models slick-backed no-nonsense hair styles and thick-set brows. 

The main focal point of the collection for me, was the wonderful techniques that designer Miriam Lehle employed to bring her vision to life.  The almost shredded-like look of some of the garments, seen on selected jackets and tops, are reminiscent of multicoloured plastic ribbon, adorned garments in fluctuating lengths (you would have to mind you didn’t get this fringing caught in the Tube doors, mind).  This tougher look juxtaposed nicely against Lehle’s softer pieces, with almost feather-like loose knitted laddering cascading down dresses (see last photograph).

Prose is described as an evolution collection, taking inspiration from itself in past seasons and organic structures and shapes, and apparently uses little trend-let inspiration.  As someone who works in trend forecasting though, i do have to say the colour palette employed by the label, all navy, beige, yellow and orange (yes, there is absolutely NO escaping tangerine I am afraid) does seem somewhat trend led.  But hey ho, this could have been a lucky fluke!

 

 

Raeffaele Ascione at London Fashion Week AW12 // Goths will be goths

What: Raeffaele Ascione AW12 at London Fashion Week

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemason’s Hall

When: Sunday 19th September 6pm – 8pm

Images credit: Samantha Meachin.

Lako Bukia at London Fashion Week AW12 // Hi Ho Silver

What: Lako Bukia

When: Monday 20th February 2012 at 7:30

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Who: My personal favourite celeb of the week, Andrew Stone as well as artist Pandemonia.

The last show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on a Monday and it’s a cold one.  A freezing queue snaked along the walkway outside the venue, eagerly awaiting not only the AW12 offerings by Lako Bukia (a firm favourite of the Style & then Some team – check out last season’s coverage here) but also the guaranteed warmth of hundreds of bodies jam-packed inside.  But alas, mini frozen yoghurts were handed to us on arrival! Oh the irony…

However, once the show started, all negative memories of the last hour outside did pale in insignificance somewhat, as we were greeted by a predominantly jet black and space-aged silver collection.  Picture a modern day Barberella if you will!  Sophisticated, yet playful shirts littered the collection, in sci-fi inspired fabrics, no less, whilst the designer’s piece de le resistance was saved for very last. A sensational shatter-mirror effect dress with sweeping black skirts completely stole the show.  And with a confetti explosion to cap it all off, (to be fair, there was a moment of ‘who got shot?’ panic when this happened) I can honestly say I thoroughly enjoyed Lako Bukia’s futuristic creations.  And with the show being set to a mix of Portishead and Lana Del Rey, two of my absolute faves, I have to admit thus far Lako Bukia is in the running for my favourite show.

Florian Jayet at Vauxhall Fashion Scout AW12 // An Egyptian Future

Who: Florian Jayet AW12 at LFW

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Saturday 18th February, 12.30pm

Florian Jayet may be a Frenchman by birth but his latest Autumn Winter collection took it’s cue from tribal marking and ancient Egyptian culture. Models opened the show at the Freemason’s Hall sporting leather headpieces, threaded with delicate silver chains while wearing a selection of tribal printed body-con dresses and leggings, in a palette of shimmering greys, limes and midnight blues.

But though the prints may have been a nod to the past, the textiles and cuts at Jayet’s show were a thing of the future. Some looks began incorporating reptile-like scales on sleeves and hems, as others flirted with exaggerated waist pleating and heavily structured waistcoats. Highlights included a series of midnight blue satin separates – from ruched skinny fit trousers to a peplum shaped dress, accessorised with a necklace that looked like it was made of blonde  human hair.

Elsewhere accessories finished off his futuristic looks, whether it was a pair of killer pumps with heels shaped as wings or a stunning chain head pieces that fell over models’ faces like a metallic waterfall. Judging from the rapturous applause at the end of the show, it seems Jayet’s AW12 collection will provide him with even more cult followers.

Photos taken with Olympus PEN E-PM1 – for more information see here

Shao Yen at London Fashion Week AW12 // Olympic Tweed

What: Shao Yen AW12

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Covent Garden

When: Saturday 18th February, 2012

Our final show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on the second day of London Fashion Week was somewhat of a bunfight (I hope this northern expression isn’t lost on too many of our Southern readers).  With a presentation being held by Shao Yen straight after a jam-packed Bernard Chandran catwalk show downstairs, all feet hop-footed it up the grand staircase to get a glimpse of the Taiwanese-born designer’s AW12 show, entitled ‘Class’.

With models perched on plinths around the show space, it did become somewhat of a mission to fight our way across (complimentary cider in hand), and dodge the oddly placed decorative TVs on the floor.  However, despite the blatant flaunting of health and safety rules, I thoroughly enjoyed being able to get up close and personal with the collection and behold the subtle detailing that controlled it.

The use of traditional tweed fabric and classic shapes were turned on their heads by Yen, who evolved these looks by adding a contemporary sports twist.  Elasticated cuffs and waistbands, as well as sporty drawstring adorned trousers and jackets, whilst classic tailored shirts were cropped and given unusual fluid lined hems.  The theme of the collection clearly reflected (ok, so the name ‘class’ is somewhat of a giveaway) a marriage between different social standing.

The use of very traditional fabrics in a thoroughly modern way goes against the general grain, but for Shao Yen’s AW12 collection, it definitely works, and has provided one of the most interesting collections I have seen so far this week, and all very fitting with the impending Olympics!  Let’s wait and see if the Queen will be spotted sporting a tweed tracksuit at the Opening Ceremony!

Dans La Vie at London Fashion Week AW12 // J Pop

What: Dans La Vie

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout

When: Saturday 18th September 1pm

The bass was heavy and the coats were shiny at Dans La Vie this season. After showing us plasticky florals for Spring/Summer we got a mixture of 60s pop art and Japanese high priest references in the same 50s fitted dress and trench coat shapes we’re familiar with.

The outerwear had fun touches like leopard print fur or grey knitwear collars but to be honest it didn’t need it. Dans La Vie showed every crazy coat you could ever imagine wearing – from patent snakeskin to hoods with a zip coming down over the model’s head.

Tulle and tutu’s burst out from beneath a few biker jackets plus the relaxed sportswear brought the extravaganza down a notch. We also got some fun headwear in the form of what looked like a bright blue egg bursting and a circular purple and orange piece.

The highlights of the show for us were actually the round sunglasses (especially the blue ones that opened the show) and the pink highlights in some of the blonde haired models. It doesn’t always have to be the clothes you fall in love with.

Image and Video credit: Samantha Meachin.

Check out the rest of Style & Then Some’s LFW coverage here.

Elisa Palomino at London Fashion Week AW 2012 // Exotic flowers

What? Elisa Palomino

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons’ Hall

When? Saturday 18th February 2012, 10:30am

I could tell from the invite that Elisa Palomino’s show was going to be floral. Exotic, orchid-like bursts of colour splashed across the catwalk, and silouettes were decidedly 1930′s Hollywood glamour with a few flapper dropped waists appearing again. (It’s nice to see that this is a trend that will carry through to the Winter, in case you’re considering investing in any 1920′s style garb.)

Elaborate hair pieces unfolded their petals of net and satin in hues of yellow and cerise, with black offsetting the bright colours. Velvet, satin, chiffon, and feather trimmings gave the impression that the designer had raided some old-school Hollywood actress’ wardrobe – which I was thoroughly in the mood for after recently seeing the brilliant film, The Artist.

Silks printed and embroidered with Oriental patterns and sheer negligees increased the sense of behind the scenes luxury. I’ve noticed a lot of leopard print around this season, and it was out in strong force at the end of this show, too. (Glamour edging towards the tackier end of the spectrum?)

Photos taken by an Olympus E-PM1

Phoebe English at London Fashion Week AW 12 // Pops of Pink

Who: Phoebe English

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Friday 17th February, 6.30pm

Who: Susie Bubble, Elle UK and the Style and Then Some team

Following hot on the heels of the One’s To Watch show, VFS alumnus Phoebe English staged her first solo offering at the Freemason’s Hall. Against a  soundtrack by Gabriel Bruce, we saw models emerge on the catwalk in laser cut ra-ra skirts with leather panelling, as well as sporty dresses with ruched waistlines and zig-zagging back straps.

With the lyric ‘I’ve got this feeling that we’re dead’ playing languorously (and on loop), as well as clothes showcased in a palette that was exclusively black and grey – things were looking pretty dreary. The name of the collection – ‘Sleep Paralysis’ – added to this moribund atmosphere. Almost anticipating this, however, English suddenly swerved into a sorbet pink colour scheme and reinvigorated her separates. Highlights included a picked cotton dress, with hidden pleated detailing on the back hem as well as the (previously mentioned) sporty dresses, but this time with a dense wool felt overlay on the skirt. The jump in to sorbet shades added a fresh point of contrast and I can see why English deserves her solo spot on  the VFS schedule.

Photos taken with Olympus PEN E-PM1 – for more information see here 

Ones to Watch @ Vauxhall Fashion Scout AW 12 // Bright Young Things

Who: One’s to Watch @ Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Friday 17th February, 4.30pm

Who: Susie Lau, the blogger behind Style Bubble

You could tell this was one of VFS’s most popular shows of the season, what with the half-hour delay and unusually busy crowd waiting in the foyer of the Freemason’s Hall. I counted over a dozen blue-rinse chignons and six trays of complimentary SNOG frozen yoghurt pass me before we were ushered into the catwalk space.

Stomachs and tempers soothed, this year’s OTW show opened with the work of Koreon-born Heohwan Simulton, whose collection echoed the designer’s background in menswear design. On offer this season, we saw cropped scoop-necked jackets with leather panelling, ankle-grazing tailored trousers and tangerine silk shifts (well it is THE colour of the year, apparently). But what started as a beatnik influenced collection – thanks to a remarkable number of plain black polo necks featured – slowly turned into the abstract. There was a hint of black velour on separates and a smattering of multicolored perspex tassels on shift dresses. It wasn’t unwearable, just an unexpected turn and one I’m sure could provide a nice shot of color in our otherwise dreary autumn wardrobes.

Next up was Myrza de Muynck and my second favourite of the lot. With her trademark buoyancy, the collection was a youthful, sporty and a real visual delight. Yes, a lot of what we’re seeing on the high street is saturated with the ubiquitous pastel trend, but Muynck modernised the candy palette using sporty materials and some interesting black paintbrush detailing.

Favourites of the show included padded mint trousers, exaggerated knit tank dresses – which reminded me a bit of the House of Holland AW11 collection – and a nice sky blue jumpsuit. Perhaps some critics would have found it a bit saccharine for their liking but I’ve always had a sweet tooth.

Anne Sofie Madsen went next and the contrast between this and Muynck’s collection couldn’t be more marked. As the first model walked down the catwalk in a leather dress with a Navaho-inspired skirt, I thought the collection was heading towards the Americas. Text-book error. If I had done my homework thoroughly, I would have known that Madsen’s aesthetic silently echoes her Scandanavian roots.

What followed was a series of latticed leather dresses, cocktail dresses embellished with delicate gold and silver chains and a healthy selection of chiffon blouses – softened by the occasional bit of floral rope arrangement. I know. It sounds bonkers and, quite frankly, at points it was. I didn’t know if I was watching a Gareth Pugh in-the-making, a master couturier in-the-making or someone who didn’t trust her talent enough (and it was there, in shed loads) to distill the collection further before showing.

The final hurrah came courtesy of fourth and final designer Nova Chiu. Having had previous stints at Matthew Williamson and Richard Nicoll, you can see where Chiu has developed her knack for using eye-popping color and sumptuous fabrics. She also uses digital printing techniques, which is probably how she achieved such a masterly mash-up of Asian, American and Oriental prints, seen on her multilayered dresses or structural jackets.

The whole thing was like watching the lovechild (or children, whatever) of the East. She also nailed it down to every detail. We saw Yeti-styled ear muffs, blouses that used protruding origami pleats and even some tassled earrings that looked like they same straight out of a Moroccan silk souk. Definitely my favourite from this year’s OTW collective.

Photos taken with Olympus Pen E-PM1 – see here for further details

Mattijs at London Fashion Week AW12 // Who said C3PO wasn’t a style icon?

What? Mattijs

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout

When? Saturday 18th February 2012 11:15am

Who? Our friend (blogger) Jamie London Boy

Who’d ever though C3PO would be in Vogue?  Mattijs’ AW12-13 collection, aptly entitled ‘Starburst’ to reflect the heavily Sci-fi themed show, paid homage and drew inspiration from some unlikely characters… from a Galaxy far, far away no less. C3PO, R2D2, Princess Leia and Atreyu from the ‘Never Ending Story’ formed the basis of the collection.  Unfortunately, however, no Harrison Ford lookalikes were in attendance.

Despite my reservations pre-show (having read the press release, and being a life-long Star Wars Hater) I have to admit the colour palette laid down on the runway was near perfect, and as anyone knows, the best way to get me to change my mind is to distract me with something gold and shiny.  Thus, an array of gorgeous lame golds and tough jet black leather, teamed with splashes of Tangerine Tango orange (we TOLD you this would happen) bought a smile to my face.  I’m sure Chewy would have agreed.  This quickly transcended in to a wash of oceanic blues and mint to seaweed green hues, as if the collection was reenacting some lost Star Wars episode in which the Rebel Alliance did battle with the fallen city of Atlantis (I can’t be sure, but I think I spied some gold shell bead work going on).

Accessories also played a major part in the theme of the show, with metallic chokers and sci-fi styled cuffs adorning the models, finishing off the look with their ‘don’t mess with the Croydon facelift’ hair dos.  However, I would suggest sticking to gold for this, as I spied a bronze choker that was very reminiscent of the copper arthritis bangles you get down the chemist.

Of course, the collection wouldn’t be a Mattijs collection if it wasn’t peppered with pleating.  Incredible palazzo pants and midi length dresses glided down the runway, reaffirming pleats are every girl’s best friend, as previously mentioned by our Sophie Caldecott here.  Overall, the Mattijs AW12 collection travelled through the downright wearable, through to the self-styled Haute Couture, something the designer is keen to reveal in his press release.  However, with a few safety pins and fastenings on display which clearly shouldn’t have been, it may be a season or two yet before the label can truly play with the Haute Couture big boys.

Fam Irvoll at London Fashion Week A/W 12 // Monster Mash

What? Fam Irvoll

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons’ Hall

When? Friday 17th February 2012 12:30pm

Oversized sweaters, leggins, baby doll dresses, and bright neon monster prints: fun is the word that really defines Fam Irvoll’s whimsical Autumn/Winter collection. Girly and tomboy aesthetics clashed with each other and fought for dominance in the somewhat unlikely pairing of trainers and ballerina tulle.

There was more than a dash of 80s disco about the zaney colour combinations. (Except that instead of perms, slick pony tails and quiffs were the order of the day.) Yellow eye shadow and turquoise lipstick ensured that even the more conservative outfits had an element of monsterly-weirdness to them.

Peter pan collars and big cuddly-toy style monsters worn as backpacks and replacements for bowties, as well as Irvoll’s childlike monster prints, were full of child-like energy. It was entirely appropriate then, when some very bouncy children joined the catwalk in bright turquoise onesies and sportswear towards the end of the show. Let the wild rumpus begin…

Georgia Hardinge at London Fashion Week AW12 // Whatever will be, will be (pretty)

What? Georgia Hardinge

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout

When? Friday 17th February 2012 7.30pm

Who? Kate Nash, Amelia Gregory

Check out the rest of Style & Then Some’s LFW coverage here.

Georgia Hardinge was our last show of the day on Friday but it was so worth waiting for. We wouldn’t lie about these things either as we’d be waiting over half an hour for the privilege. But the opening bars of Que Sera Sera set the scene – warm vocals fit for the opening looks of grown up mustard suedes and demure, beige lace up boots.

For AW12, Hardinge showed an interesting mix of blouses, pants and dresses in jewel tones – blues, plums – and printed bodycon jersey dresses with a hint of knitwear thrown in. Some very Miss Marple-esque wide-brimmed bowler hats completed the set-up.

Sometimes the justaposition worked particularly beautifully- as in the greyish-beige knitted jumper with attached snood which Hardinge  layered over a fitted ankle length white and purple dyed skirt. The skirt lengths made it feel lean and effortless and we were a big fan of the boxy pleated boleros in cream and plum.

Things got a bit sculptural around the hip zone for the last AW12 look – this dress encased in a dress wasn’t exactly party wear. But it was a bold taste of what we are yet to see from this exciting British designer – plus she gets bonus Style and Then Some points for looking very chic in her own designs for the bow at the end.

Apologies for the shaky video footage – let’s just say Georgia Hardinge made us go weak at the knees by the time the finale rolled round.

 

Images and Video credit: Samantha Meachin

A La Disposition at London Fashion Week AW12 // Paying Fashionable Respects

What? A La Disposition salon show

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemason’s Hall

When? Friday 17th September, 4pm – 6pm

Who? Fashion bloggers taking pics of each other taking pics, the designers Daniel Kinne and Lynda Cohen

Helena Bonham Carter’s getting her plastic out as we speak. For the A La Disposition salon show today at Vauxhall Fashion Scout was full of enough eccentric checked tux jackets, voluminous quilted skirts and quirky hats to make any Victoriana fan shake with excitement.

The dimly lit space upstairs in the Freemason’s Hall suited the gothic mood perfectly and the A La Disposition invites “solemnly” requested our presence at the show. It is a shame we only got to see the looks on mannequins as I can imagine these outfits looking great with that huge, romantic poodle hair you sometimes see in fashion editorial. And the models striding down the catwalk, canes in hand.

But the clothes spoke for themselves – top hats, zig-zag patterned pencil skirts and coats with tails that drifted across the marble floor made this one individual collection indeed. The A La Disposition woman for AW12 is on a Tim Burton/ Dickens binge and looking to make a statement.

Check out the rest of Style & Then Some’s LFW coverage here.

Talking to the songbird: Jacob Kimmie SS12

What? Jacob Kimmie at London Fashion Week

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemason’s Hall

When? Saturday 17th September, 1pm

All images Faraz Pourreza Jorshari.