James Small and Ones To Watch AW12 // Where Them Boys At?

After a hard week of Fashion Show grafting from the Style & Then Some team, I decided that the last day, namely the last ever Menswear Day in London, (it will be expanded to three days in June to coincide with the international Menswear Weeks hosted by Milan and Paris) should be given a proper send off.  And let’s face it, when you’re reporting from the front line (or the back row, depending on how lucky you get) it isn’t all glamour and high heels.  

Oh no, it’s elbows and being knocked out by camera lenses in the photographer’s pit, or else craning your neck and spraining your ankles for a good view from the standing section.  But, as I am sure you will agree with me if you too have been in the trenches this season (comrades, I applaud you), that afterwards, when you sit back and drink it all in, it’s just so worth it.

But back to the Boys I hear you say!  Well, yesterday (Wednesday) I decided to enlist the help of two male friends and drag them (actually, they were both well up for it) along to the Ones to Watch:Men and James Small shows respectively.  My aim of the night was to analyse their attitudes towards the shows, and get some variations on male opinions regarding the collections on offer.  After a week of straight womenswear and women’s opinions on Style & Then Some, I thought it would be a nice change of pace to sit back and let the boys do the talking.

First up, was Adam, at the Ones To Watch: Men showcase.  The show saw Bodybound, Joseph Turvey, Julian Zigerli and Tobefrank showcase their AW12 efforts and this was to be Adam’s first ever fashion show.  Despite making comments like ‘that’s a funny little outfit, aye’ outside the venue to several fellow spectators, it was refreshing to hear a guy, who doesn’t work in the fashion industry, tell it like he saw it.  With regards to his favourite collection on offer, Adam declared it was to be Julian Zigerli.   When asked why, it turns out it was because the garments were ’ all using light patterns, you know, Paisley and that’ and that the shades were to his liking- ‘All bold autumn colours, stone, brown and green, like’.

Despite me watching Zigerli’s technical structures in awe, such as a conceptual top that functioned with a built-in backpack, my companion pointed out that this would be damn impractical and useless for the everyday man…something I cannot argue with.  ’You’d have to take your top off to put anything in your bag!’ he quite rightly pointed out.  Damn, why are men so practical!  With regards to the other designers showcasing, me and Adam were in agreement that Bodybound was a shimmering delight (my words, not his).  With gold foiling being a major trend on knitwear for women for the last two seasons, it has finally made its way into menswear.  Just another excuse to steal your BF’s clothes girls.

After a quick Corona, I traded my fashion show newbie in for a seasoned pro.  Daniel Thomas, a menswear designer and fellow Leeds College of Art post-graduate accompanied me to the closing show of the season, the highly anticipated James Small spectacular, sponsored by the amazing Vauxhall Fashion Scout (thank you for letting us decamp at Freemasons Hall all week, by the way!).  After somehow managing to blag second row seats, the show began to quickly fill up with celebs such as Jaime Winstone, Jo Wood, Mr Hudson and, lo and behold, Mr. and Mrs. Kate Moss.  I fear I may have actually been blinded by her engagement ring from across the room.  The collection itself was incredible, and my second companion commented on the show thusly:

    ‘The James Small show was the perfect end to Fashion Week – they always save the best for last.  For me the best pieces from the show were the jersey skinny trousers and the jersey waders were insane. The wool jackets were so stylish and well cut, and the use of pockets throughout the collection was just brilliant.  The patch pockets with flaps can sometimes look really messy but I felt they were really considered in the design of the garments. There was one double-breasted blue jacket with Raglan sleeves which was to die for. It was so well cut and well designed I felt it was like a jacket you would wear in Fashion Heaven.  I really liked the fur in the collection as well – the big hug in a mug jacket was amazing.  So Pete Burns chic. Overall the whole collection was a huge success.  Plus personally I would wear every last one of the garments that came down the catwalk.’

Overall, it was a good little experiment to gain different insights in to the male psyche.  Plus I got to sit back and watch a whole host of male models, and Kate Moss.

   

Prose at London Fashion Week AW12 // Shredded Delight

What: Prose

When: Monday, 20th February at 18:30pm

Where:  Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons Hall

Who: Andrew Stone again!

 

This is the first season I am witness to the label Prose.  And with the show being set to an eerie mix of what I believe to be a depressed French love song, I was not expecting bucket loads of frivolity.  And quite rightly so, as the models sauntered down the runway in what appeared, overall, to be a very sombre and subdued collection, from the colour palette right down to the models slick-backed no-nonsense hair styles and thick-set brows. 

The main focal point of the collection for me, was the wonderful techniques that designer Miriam Lehle employed to bring her vision to life.  The almost shredded-like look of some of the garments, seen on selected jackets and tops, are reminiscent of multicoloured plastic ribbon, adorned garments in fluctuating lengths (you would have to mind you didn’t get this fringing caught in the Tube doors, mind).  This tougher look juxtaposed nicely against Lehle’s softer pieces, with almost feather-like loose knitted laddering cascading down dresses (see last photograph).

Prose is described as an evolution collection, taking inspiration from itself in past seasons and organic structures and shapes, and apparently uses little trend-let inspiration.  As someone who works in trend forecasting though, i do have to say the colour palette employed by the label, all navy, beige, yellow and orange (yes, there is absolutely NO escaping tangerine I am afraid) does seem somewhat trend led.  But hey ho, this could have been a lucky fluke!

 

 

Raeffaele Ascione at London Fashion Week AW12 // Goths will be goths

What: Raeffaele Ascione AW12 at London Fashion Week

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemason’s Hall

When: Sunday 19th September 6pm – 8pm

Images credit: Samantha Meachin.

Lako Bukia at London Fashion Week AW12 // Hi Ho Silver

What: Lako Bukia

When: Monday 20th February 2012 at 7:30

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Who: My personal favourite celeb of the week, Andrew Stone as well as artist Pandemonia.

The last show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on a Monday and it’s a cold one.  A freezing queue snaked along the walkway outside the venue, eagerly awaiting not only the AW12 offerings by Lako Bukia (a firm favourite of the Style & then Some team – check out last season’s coverage here) but also the guaranteed warmth of hundreds of bodies jam-packed inside.  But alas, mini frozen yoghurts were handed to us on arrival! Oh the irony…

However, once the show started, all negative memories of the last hour outside did pale in insignificance somewhat, as we were greeted by a predominantly jet black and space-aged silver collection.  Picture a modern day Barberella if you will!  Sophisticated, yet playful shirts littered the collection, in sci-fi inspired fabrics, no less, whilst the designer’s piece de le resistance was saved for very last. A sensational shatter-mirror effect dress with sweeping black skirts completely stole the show.  And with a confetti explosion to cap it all off, (to be fair, there was a moment of ‘who got shot?’ panic when this happened) I can honestly say I thoroughly enjoyed Lako Bukia’s futuristic creations.  And with the show being set to a mix of Portishead and Lana Del Rey, two of my absolute faves, I have to admit thus far Lako Bukia is in the running for my favourite show.

Florian Jayet at Vauxhall Fashion Scout AW12 // An Egyptian Future

Who: Florian Jayet AW12 at LFW

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Saturday 18th February, 12.30pm

Florian Jayet may be a Frenchman by birth but his latest Autumn Winter collection took it’s cue from tribal marking and ancient Egyptian culture. Models opened the show at the Freemason’s Hall sporting leather headpieces, threaded with delicate silver chains while wearing a selection of tribal printed body-con dresses and leggings, in a palette of shimmering greys, limes and midnight blues.

But though the prints may have been a nod to the past, the textiles and cuts at Jayet’s show were a thing of the future. Some looks began incorporating reptile-like scales on sleeves and hems, as others flirted with exaggerated waist pleating and heavily structured waistcoats. Highlights included a series of midnight blue satin separates – from ruched skinny fit trousers to a peplum shaped dress, accessorised with a necklace that looked like it was made of blonde  human hair.

Elsewhere accessories finished off his futuristic looks, whether it was a pair of killer pumps with heels shaped as wings or a stunning chain head pieces that fell over models’ faces like a metallic waterfall. Judging from the rapturous applause at the end of the show, it seems Jayet’s AW12 collection will provide him with even more cult followers.

Photos taken with Olympus PEN E-PM1 – for more information see here

Shao Yen at London Fashion Week AW12 // Olympic Tweed

What: Shao Yen AW12

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Covent Garden

When: Saturday 18th February, 2012

Our final show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on the second day of London Fashion Week was somewhat of a bunfight (I hope this northern expression isn’t lost on too many of our Southern readers).  With a presentation being held by Shao Yen straight after a jam-packed Bernard Chandran catwalk show downstairs, all feet hop-footed it up the grand staircase to get a glimpse of the Taiwanese-born designer’s AW12 show, entitled ‘Class’.

With models perched on plinths around the show space, it did become somewhat of a mission to fight our way across (complimentary cider in hand), and dodge the oddly placed decorative TVs on the floor.  However, despite the blatant flaunting of health and safety rules, I thoroughly enjoyed being able to get up close and personal with the collection and behold the subtle detailing that controlled it.

The use of traditional tweed fabric and classic shapes were turned on their heads by Yen, who evolved these looks by adding a contemporary sports twist.  Elasticated cuffs and waistbands, as well as sporty drawstring adorned trousers and jackets, whilst classic tailored shirts were cropped and given unusual fluid lined hems.  The theme of the collection clearly reflected (ok, so the name ‘class’ is somewhat of a giveaway) a marriage between different social standing.

The use of very traditional fabrics in a thoroughly modern way goes against the general grain, but for Shao Yen’s AW12 collection, it definitely works, and has provided one of the most interesting collections I have seen so far this week, and all very fitting with the impending Olympics!  Let’s wait and see if the Queen will be spotted sporting a tweed tracksuit at the Opening Ceremony!

Dans La Vie at London Fashion Week AW12 // J Pop

What: Dans La Vie

Where: Vauxhall Fashion Scout

When: Saturday 18th September 1pm

The bass was heavy and the coats were shiny at Dans La Vie this season. After showing us plasticky florals for Spring/Summer we got a mixture of 60s pop art and Japanese high priest references in the same 50s fitted dress and trench coat shapes we’re familiar with.

The outerwear had fun touches like leopard print fur or grey knitwear collars but to be honest it didn’t need it. Dans La Vie showed every crazy coat you could ever imagine wearing – from patent snakeskin to hoods with a zip coming down over the model’s head.

Tulle and tutu’s burst out from beneath a few biker jackets plus the relaxed sportswear brought the extravaganza down a notch. We also got some fun headwear in the form of what looked like a bright blue egg bursting and a circular purple and orange piece.

The highlights of the show for us were actually the round sunglasses (especially the blue ones that opened the show) and the pink highlights in some of the blonde haired models. It doesn’t always have to be the clothes you fall in love with.

Image and Video credit: Samantha Meachin.

Check out the rest of Style & Then Some’s LFW coverage here.

Elisa Palomino at London Fashion Week AW 2012 // Exotic flowers

What? Elisa Palomino

Where? Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemasons’ Hall

When? Saturday 18th February 2012, 10:30am

I could tell from the invite that Elisa Palomino’s show was going to be floral. Exotic, orchid-like bursts of colour splashed across the catwalk, and silouettes were decidedly 1930′s Hollywood glamour with a few flapper dropped waists appearing again. (It’s nice to see that this is a trend that will carry through to the Winter, in case you’re considering investing in any 1920′s style garb.)

Elaborate hair pieces unfolded their petals of net and satin in hues of yellow and cerise, with black offsetting the bright colours. Velvet, satin, chiffon, and feather trimmings gave the impression that the designer had raided some old-school Hollywood actress’ wardrobe – which I was thoroughly in the mood for after recently seeing the brilliant film, The Artist.

Silks printed and embroidered with Oriental patterns and sheer negligees increased the sense of behind the scenes luxury. I’ve noticed a lot of leopard print around this season, and it was out in strong force at the end of this show, too. (Glamour edging towards the tackier end of the spectrum?)

Photos taken by an Olympus E-PM1

Phoebe English at London Fashion Week AW 12 // Pops of Pink

Who: Phoebe English

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Friday 17th February, 6.30pm

Who: Susie Bubble, Elle UK and the Style and Then Some team

Following hot on the heels of the One’s To Watch show, VFS alumnus Phoebe English staged her first solo offering at the Freemason’s Hall. Against a  soundtrack by Gabriel Bruce, we saw models emerge on the catwalk in laser cut ra-ra skirts with leather panelling, as well as sporty dresses with ruched waistlines and zig-zagging back straps.

With the lyric ‘I’ve got this feeling that we’re dead’ playing languorously (and on loop), as well as clothes showcased in a palette that was exclusively black and grey – things were looking pretty dreary. The name of the collection – ‘Sleep Paralysis’ – added to this moribund atmosphere. Almost anticipating this, however, English suddenly swerved into a sorbet pink colour scheme and reinvigorated her separates. Highlights included a picked cotton dress, with hidden pleated detailing on the back hem as well as the (previously mentioned) sporty dresses, but this time with a dense wool felt overlay on the skirt. The jump in to sorbet shades added a fresh point of contrast and I can see why English deserves her solo spot on  the VFS schedule.

Photos taken with Olympus PEN E-PM1 – for more information see here 

Ones to Watch @ Vauxhall Fashion Scout AW 12 // Bright Young Things

Who: One’s to Watch @ Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Where: Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden

When: Friday 17th February, 4.30pm

Who: Susie Lau, the blogger behind Style Bubble

You could tell this was one of VFS’s most popular shows of the season, what with the half-hour delay and unusually busy crowd waiting in the foyer of the Freemason’s Hall. I counted over a dozen blue-rinse chignons and six trays of complimentary SNOG frozen yoghurt pass me before we were ushered into the catwalk space.

Stomachs and tempers soothed, this year’s OTW show opened with the work of Koreon-born Heohwan Simulton, whose collection echoed the designer’s background in menswear design. On offer this season, we saw cropped scoop-necked jackets with leather panelling, ankle-grazing tailored trousers and tangerine silk shifts (well it is THE colour of the year, apparently). But what started as a beatnik influenced collection – thanks to a remarkable number of plain black polo necks featured – slowly turned into the abstract. There was a hint of black velour on separates and a smattering of multicolored perspex tassels on shift dresses. It wasn’t unwearable, just an unexpected turn and one I’m sure could provide a nice shot of color in our otherwise dreary autumn wardrobes.

Next up was Myrza de Muynck and my second favourite of the lot. With her trademark buoyancy, the collection was a youthful, sporty and a real visual delight. Yes, a lot of what we’re seeing on the high street is saturated with the ubiquitous pastel trend, but Muynck modernised the candy palette using sporty materials and some interesting black paintbrush detailing.

Favourites of the show included padded mint trousers, exaggerated knit tank dresses – which reminded me a bit of the House of Holland AW11 collection – and a nice sky blue jumpsuit. Perhaps some critics would have found it a bit saccharine for their liking but I’ve always had a sweet tooth.

Anne Sofie Madsen went next and the contrast between this and Muynck’s collection couldn’t be more marked. As the first model walked down the catwalk in a leather dress with a Navaho-inspired skirt, I thought the collection was heading towards the Americas. Text-book error. If I had done my homework thoroughly, I would have known that Madsen’s aesthetic silently echoes her Scandanavian roots.

What followed was a series of latticed leather dresses, cocktail dresses embellished with delicate gold and silver chains and a healthy selection of chiffon blouses – softened by the occasional bit of floral rope arrangement. I know. It sounds bonkers and, quite frankly, at points it was. I didn’t know if I was watching a Gareth Pugh in-the-making, a master couturier in-the-making or someone who didn’t trust her talent enough (and it was there, in shed loads) to distill the collection further before showing.

The final hurrah came courtesy of fourth and final designer Nova Chiu. Having had previous stints at Matthew Williamson and Richard Nicoll, you can see where Chiu has developed her knack for using eye-popping color and sumptuous fabrics. She also uses digital printing techniques, which is probably how she achieved such a masterly mash-up of Asian, American and Oriental prints, seen on her multilayered dresses or structural jackets.

The whole thing was like watching the lovechild (or children, whatever) of the East. She also nailed it down to every detail. We saw Yeti-styled ear muffs, blouses that used protruding origami pleats and even some tassled earrings that looked like they same straight out of a Moroccan silk souk. Definitely my favourite from this year’s OTW collective.

Photos taken with Olympus Pen E-PM1 – see here for further details