What: Eudon Choi AW12 at LFW
Where: Portico Rooms, Somerset House
When: Saturday 18th February, 6.45pm
Who: Susie Bubble and Elle staffers waiting to go into the 7.30pm Eudon Choi show
Walking into the Terra Nova (new land) that designer Eudon Choi had created for himself in the Somerset House Portico Rooms, we were greeted by darkness and a projection of nature footage in moody monochrome. Not exactly your everyday salon show.
Eudon Choi for AW12 was refreshingly and obviously autumn and winterwear with fur lined hoods, a muted and sophsticated colour palette (bar a pop of blue) and the least sexy pair of elbow-length gloves I have ever seen. What looked like swim caps – in black, white or doused in sequins – adorned some of the models’ heads and it’s no surprise, what with Choi’s menswear background, that the focus was on beautiful tailoring. His womenswear training at the RCA hasn’t been forgotten though. The stand out looks were a two tone, textured coat that looked straight out of Proenza Schouler and an asymmetrical, fitted top paired with a demure knee-length (but sexily slit) skirt. Both are strong and feminine without screaming ‘alpha female’.
Choi’s team staged a wonderful “fashion moment” (above) that gently unfolded look by look. The models arranged themselves on the white chairs and stools, grabbing a pair of binoculars each and staring into the crowd – who, as any seasoned LFW goers will know, were hell bent on papping the womenswear to within a thread of its life. The ensemble reminded me of a female photographer who took snaps of any man that wolf-whistled or heckled at her in the street. And even though it’s more likely Choi had his Terra Nova theme in mind, I’m willing to agree to disagree with the Korean wunderkid.
Images credit: Samantha Meachin, Katie Wright