Two seasons ago, I was introduced to the work of Spijkers en Spijkers with their gloriously on trend Spring 2012 offering of graphic flapper dresses and slouchy tailoring. Instantly, I was a fan. So imagine my surprise when, last February, their winter collection, all flowery prints and autumnal colours, didn’t excite my sartorial senses nearly as much. I’m happy to report that yesterday, however, the Dutch duo delivered a distinct return to form with La Femme Paysage (‘the female landscape’) for Spring 2013, and a return to their favourite decade of inspiration, the roaring twenties.
So that meant plenty more of those signature spaghetti strap and sleeved dresses, cut close to the body and rendered in contrasting geometric sections of honan silk. There was an unusually wide spectrum of colour on show, at least for the Spijkers sisters – muted primary colours (duck egg blue, sherbert yellow, dusty red) shapes were paired with black and neutrals, and one flapper frock comprised seven horizontal panels, an off-kilter rainbow of colour. Elsewhere, a pair of sharp, tuxedo-esque suits – the standout in navy with black contrast collar – and a few crisp white shirts nodded to the mannish tailoring aspect the designers often favour.
Then the paintbox colours faded away as the show segued into clothes made for after nightfall. Black silk dresses edged with lace had a subtle Sicilian sultriness to them, but they were positively prim compared to what came next: discs of fine black lace, patchworked together and clinging to the body on slinky pencil skirts and knee-length dresses, revealing far more than they covered up. Inspired by artist Sonia Delauney’s Orphism movement, this is more sex than we’ve seen on a Spijkers and Spijkers catwalk for several seasons, but it was handled deftly. The piece de resistance, another Orphistic lace dress, this time shot through with opaque silver patches, was pitch perfect.
Photos: Faraz Pourreza-Jorshari www.boomson.com